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Routes in Hanksville Area

Candy Stick, The T A2
Crow Shit Peak T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Night Terrors A1
Type: Trad, Aid, 90 ft, Grade II
FA: Crusher Bartlett, Chip Wilson, April 22, 2009
Page Views: 293 total, 21/month
Shared By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett on Oct 24, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

The climb takes intermittent cracks on the east-northeast side of the formation.
1. Start on the east corner, follow zigzagging cracks. About one third of the way up is an obvious short section of deep crack that takes excellent large cams, then mostly thin nailing in calcite seams up and left to a flake crack, then a short rotten section to the top (90’, A2)

Location

From Hanksville, drive west on Highway 24 over the Fremont River. Turn right (north) on River North Road. Drive a half mile, locate the tower up and right.
Descent: rappel the route from three fixed spikes, made from angle iron. The first one is about 14 inches long. The other two, on the west side of the summit, are about 9–10 inches long. Drilled holes in the spikes are threaded with 5mm cord. The cord may need replacing/rethreading.

Protection

Gear: 12 large Toucans (large Tomahawks would likely work fine, though the super-thin blades of the Toucans work great in the calcite seams. Peckers are fatter, might blow out the cracks), a handful of Lost Arrows. One each angle to 2”. Small selection of nuts. Cams, one each from 1.25-inch to #4.5 Camalot, plus a couple extra 4-inch cams. Tie-offs, quickdraws (to alleviate rope drag).

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