The Candy Stick

The climb takes intermittent cracks on the east-northeast side of the formation.
1. Start on the east corner, follow zigzagging cracks. About one third of the way up is an obvious short section of deep crack that takes excellent large cams, then mostly thin nailing in calcite seams up and left to a flake crack, then a short rotten section to the top (90’, A2)

From Hanksville, drive west on Highway 24 over the Fremont River. Turn right (north) on River North Road. Drive a half mile, locate the tower to the northwest just below the rim. Park, hike uphill 100 yards to the base.

Descent: rappel the route from three fixed spikes, made from angle iron. The first one is about 14 inches long. The other two, on the west side of the summit, are about 9–10 inches long. Drilled holes in the spikes are threaded with 5mm cord. The cord may need replacing/rethreading.

The coordinates given above seem to be a generic Hanksville locate. This is closer: 38.38822, -110.72771

Gear: 12 large Toucans (large Tomahawks would likely work fine, though the super-thin blades of the Toucans work great in the calcite seams. Peckers are fatter, might blow out the cracks), a handful of Lost Arrows. One each angle to 2”. Small selection of nuts. Cams, one each from 1.25-inch to #4.5 Camalot, plus a couple extra 4-inch cams. Tie-offs, quickdraws (to alleviate rope drag).