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Routes in Beach View

Patience T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Agrestic Burning T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Josh Gross, Stanely Vrba, Madeleine Sorkin
Page Views: 744 total · 41/month
Shared By: Josh Gross on Oct 23, 2016
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

P1 11+ Climbs beautiful left facing black varnished corner. First crux is encountered about 40ft up. Stemming and trickery on uniquely featured rock !

P2 12 Crux pitch , everything from desert OW entrance exam to power stemming and Red Rocks style movement. More than one way to do the crux! Airy !

P3 11- Boulder problem off the belay , to fun 5.10 hands splitter on the right side of the corner ! Funky move to nice belay ledge!

P4 12 Climb right off belay eventually making your way up and left to a unique left facing nose feature. Power layback , pinch , stem up this left facing nose ! Finish heading up and right on airy and pumpy terrain.

P5 Low 5th class scramble up and left to the rim.

This route would not have come together without the trust and climbing skills of Lynn Sanson, Madeleine Sorkin, Adam Baxter, Dustin Dyer, Ralph Ferrara.

Location

"Patience" climbs the spectacular left facing corner in the center of the "Beach View" wall.
Rap the route , 2 60m ropes 2 raps. After down climbing pitch 5.

Protection

Small to medium wires.
00, 0 - 1 Camalot (1)
2- 3 Camalot (2)
4, 5 Camalot (1)
10 draws 4 long

Photos

Well done! Thanks for the hard work. Oct 23, 2016
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.12c
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.12c
A great route with a very tenuous crux pitch. Some of the rock is a little fragile but overall the quality is very high when compared to other routes in the area and it should clean up with more traffic. Make sure to bring your edging shoes as there is very little jamming and all the hard sections are bolt protected face/corner climbing. Nice work Josh! Nov 21, 2016
Nate Sydnor
Moab
 
Nate Sydnor   Moab
 
A few notes from my experience that I hope will be helpful for sending on this route! First, I would say that the leg energy expended on the hike up is precious for the 2nd pitch, and you can rappel this route with a 60m rope in 4 quick and clean raps, so skip the tagline. Two ropes will get you down quicker, but that's a lot of extra rope work and effort...Also, come prepared with either tat to replace some things, or a full setup of chain and links to make the anchors more approachable/safe. We were unprepared for this and so were only able to minimally update one anchor. On the rack beta, we would recommend just a single set from purple/00 c3 to #5 BD Camalot, and no wires.

My opinion of this route is similar to one I've seen for Jay Smith's route Jesus Saves, in which the recommendation goes something like this; "the first few pitches are 5 stars, so you can stop there, or be a real climber and go to the top." That's kind of my take on this route. The first two pitches are AMAZING, the 3rd is...something, and the 4th and 5th.....take you to the top. I did climb the 4th pitch in the dark, so my opinion of it may be a bit jaded, but it was super sandy and reminded me of some routes at Wall Street that may never really clean up because they're in a vein of sand that drains from above. Feel free to PM me with any questions, as there a few pieces of micro-beta that may help out if you're into that sort of thing... Nov 9, 2017

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