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Routes in Lost Wall

Angels and Demons T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Angels corner T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Baby Buzzard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Back to the Future T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Black Hole T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Black Pig T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Booze and Broads T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Clodhopper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Defoliator T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Didn't Make it to Sunset T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ethnic Cleanser S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Foreign Policy T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Franklin Boys T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Future's Window S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Garden Club T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Get Your Wings T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Goodbye Girl T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Guzzler T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hidden Precious T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Hobbler, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Laurel Lie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Linda's Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lost and Found T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Maybe Not T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Megster T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Netherworld Excavation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nightmares T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nooner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Paradigm S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Party Rock T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Persistence T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pipe Full of Fun T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Place in the Shade T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Prevailing Winds T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Refrigerator Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Roger's Corner T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Samurai T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Short and sweet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Somalian Hunger S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Steggo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Sweet and sour T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tree Hugger T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Twister T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
U.S. Customs Blues T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Yellow Jacket T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
boy scout crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
crew leader T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
kids korner T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
perfect timing T WI4 M1 PG13
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Jim Corbett
Page Views: 164 total · 7/month
Shared By: TobyTowne on Sep 29, 2016
Admins: saxfiend

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Description

Slabby start leads to fun slightly overhanging climbing above.

Location

to the left of the corner just past Chinese Writing

Protection

I found no gear for the first 35 feet or so. The crux is down low and on sidepulls so be careful if on lead. if you happen to have removeable bolts you might be in luck, there are at least 3 holes that i assume sported bolts at one time.

Photos

Jim Corbett
Keene, NY
Jim Corbett   Keene, NY
At first I was going to correct the name, as the face climb I put up was 'Revenge of the Jedi' (the original name of the movie, replaced at the last minute by 'Return'), but neither the photo, rating, or description match. Then I realized this is 'Back to the Future', which goes up the left wall of the big right facing corner where 'Netherworld Excavation' is, left of 'Revenge.' I was in the phase of trying to go as boltless as possible, so drilled three holes for 3/8" removable bolts on the crux face stretch. (Wound up not needing the third as I found a cool, sideways, tricky but bomber tri-cam). It was a bit of an experiment. Later thought about putting bolts in the first two holes so people could do it as RBs never caught on, but never got around to it.
Anyway, I thought it was a pretty good route, and you're right, the crux is down low on side pulls. If you did that sans gear and especially on sight then you are a bad mofo'.
But the actual name is 'Back to the Future', which with 20 years perspective seems a little cheesy, but, oh well. Jan 5, 2018

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