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Routes in tyrannosaurus

Rex TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: TR, 45 ft
FA: Rob Pilaczynski 7/16/16
Page Views: 312 total, 19/month
Shared By: Rob P. on Jul 18, 2016
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

The T-rex is a wild ride! Start in the kind of chossy corner underneath the roofs. Big move up and left into the rail on the arĂȘte. Find a sequence of crimps up higher to move right and set up for the crux, a (for me) dynamic foot-cutting throw to a compression arĂȘte above the 2nd roof. From here, move up to an amazing pinch on the lip of a roof and a small crimp and get established into a knee-bar to help pull over the upper roof/crux. A few more feet of easier climbing to the top.

Protection

Tricky top rope set up. Long slings and thoughtful/careful master-point placement required! There's a key re-direct piece below and right of the final roof that helps control swings if you fall off and a possible lower re--direct piece can protect the opening moves. PM me for more specific anchor beta if interested. Would be X-rated lead.

Photos

Jon Marek
Sioux Falls, SD
Jon Marek   Sioux Falls, SD
Woot woot! Nice work. Oct 5, 2016
BryanE
Minneapolis, MN
BryanE   Minneapolis, MN
Nice work Rob! Jul 31, 2016
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
Nice send, Rob!! I looked at that thing about 12 years ago and couldn't see a path. Way to work it!! Jul 20, 2016