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All Locations > California > Sierra Eastside > Lone Pine Area > Alabama Hills > South Park

Half 'n' Half

5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British


 Avg: 1 from 5 votes

Routes in South Park

Choss Avoidance Syndrome S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Corner Bakery S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Drillers Moon S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Groove, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Half 'n' Half T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shit Faced in Tuskaloosa S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Women with Power Tools S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 190 total · 7/month
Shared By: Benjamin Chapman on Jun 12, 2016
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Half 'n' Half is a mixed route that climbs a crack until it pinches down, then moves right to hollow flakes protected by two bolts. If the 5.6 grade is too tame leaving the cams and nuts on the deck and utilizing just two quickdraws and an anchor definitely adds some spice to an ascent.

Location

South face.

Protection

Small cams (0.5 - 0.75) medium nut, two bolts.

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Photos

Checking holds on Half 'n' Half.
Checking holds on Half 'n' Half.
 1
Half 'n' Half, to the right of the horn.
Half 'n' Half, to the right of the horn.
 1
Half 'n' Half.
Half 'n' Half.
 1
oops... forgot the cams and nuts
oops... forgot the cams and nuts
 0

3 Comments

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Newest Oldest Best Beta
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.7
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.7
No real need for cams but a nut or two might keep you off the deck if something breaks while getting to the bolt. Top out features some of the largest grains and choss available. When you leave, take some home with you, they will be laying all over your rope tarp.

Barely one star. I'll go .679 stars. Nov 14, 2016
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
 
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
 
Nice gear beta and description Russ. I particularly like the bit that encourages folks to take souvenir grains, crystals, and choss. Nov 14, 2016
JC w KC redux
  5.6
JC w KC redux  
  5.6
We enjoyed this route. It is steep for the grade, has good stances for placing gear and has some interesting moves. I used a nice finger lock in the right-most slot with a green alien in the next crack over for the last move before the first bolt. I placed a #1 camalot down lower and a bomber .75 in the very top of the main crack. I'd give it a star. Well protected and fun. Jul 4, 2017

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