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Routes in South Park

Choss Avoidance Syndrome S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Corner Bakery S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Drillers Moon S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Groove, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Half 'n' Half T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shit Faced in Tuskaloosa S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Women with Power Tools S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: BC
Page Views: 218 total, 12/month
Shared By: Benjamin Chapman on Jun 12, 2016
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

As the name implies good route finding and astute choice of holds avoids choss and enhances route quality and the fun factor. Begin left of the large hueco on stellar holds on the orange patina plates. Clip the 1st bolt and continue up using the plates for hand and foot holds until a mantle leads to a stance atop the patina plates, being careful of the hollow exfoliated gong-like flake above. If you must use the hollow flake to complete the mantle gently pull down and not out. There's not much holding that "flake" in place. Move left onto the face and climb up on good edges and crimps on a broad black pillar to the anchor. Poor route finding or choice of holds could lead to a choss master's paradise.

Location

Left of the center of the north face of South Park.

Protection

5 bolts & chain anchor.

Photos

susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.9
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.9
Three stars for the first two bolts, the rock feature color and overall movement is super good. Then comes the grains and creaky holds dropping to one start for the upper 2/3rds. Combined rating... 2 stars and worth climbing sans those damn chains that you need to thread. Nov 14, 2016
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.9
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.9
The plates are neat and feature some nice pulling. The rest of the route is standard chossy fair. 1.633 stars. Nov 14, 2016
Fun route, especially the opening moves. Not really that much choss to avoid, but where's there IS choss, it's muy bad. Oct 9, 2016