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Routes in Jack-O-Lantern Wall

Fan Route S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 149 total · 5/month
Shared By: Brock B. on May 30, 2016
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

A unique climb up short, broken columns. Hidden holds can be found behind many of the columns.

Location

Downhill (climbers right) from The Cave. This is the only route on Jack-O-Lantern Wall.

Protection

12 bolts and chain anchors.

Photos

slim

  5.8
slim    
  5.8
judging by the small amount of rope left when rapping with a 70, i would estimate that this route is closer to 110 feet or so. the route is very interesting as you are continually climbing a series of small pillars, some of which vibrate substantially when you pound them. it seemed like the kind of route where a gorilla tugging beginner could get an unfortunate surprise.

to find the route, when you get to the top of the approach trai head up and slightly right through some minor ledges that naturally lead you to a nice belay spot. you can't miss the route as they are the only bolts in the area. Apr 4, 2017
There is a second pitch to this route. It is 2 bolts plus Trad up to 2 inches. The second set of chains are about 30 feet above the first set. They do not get much use.

The first pitch was very fun, but I would not rate it as high as 5.8. More like the 5.6 climbs of Goose Egg Mountain. The second pitch is a solid 5.8, though, and may be why this is rated as such. Sep 20, 2017

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