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Routes in Grand Mogul

Chockstone Couloir T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Steep Snow
Type: Trad, Snow, Alpine, 1200 ft, Grade II
FA: Iowa Mountaineers 1957
Page Views: 777 total, 41/month
Shared By: Zach Weyn on May 30, 2016
Admins: WAGbag, Mike Engle

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Description

The Chockstone Couloir is a north facing gash that splits the mountain in two. About halfway up the route, a large truck sized boulder called the Chockstone presents a sometimes significant obstacle. Depending on the time of year, the Chockstone can be climbed around on mixed rock, ice, and snow, or climbed directly as a 5.4 rock climb. Below the Chockstone the snow is 40 degrees, and above the route it steepens to 50 degrees with short 55 degree roll offs.

Descent can be made by scrambling down the east side toward an alpine lake visible from the summit. From there, exit the bowl heading north/northeast for gentler terrain and head toward Redfish Lake. A trail skirts the outside of the lake, making for a quick route back to camp.

Location

From the Inlet Transfer camp, take the trail toward Lily Pond. Follow the terrain toward the base of the couloir.

Protection

2 Pickets, light alpine rack. The crux is no more than 40 feet, and can be soloed early season or by experienced and confident climbers.

There is a bolted belay station on the right, but is often covered in snow.

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