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Routes in The Roost

Barnyard Bouncehouse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ian's 3 pitch Project S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Ian's Project S 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b
Lightning in a Bottle S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Noah's Project S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Rooster Moans, The S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tell Tale Heart - Noah's Project S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Valhalla S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13
Type: Sport, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Noah Kaufman
Page Views: 545 total · 25/month
Shared By: Boulderdoc Kaufman on May 2, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

WOW! A Northern Colorado testpiece. This has beautiful and wildly exposed, quality, granite face climbing. It is bouldery with dynos and fat kid climbing as well. Also it is technical.... This thing has it all! 3 pitches of glory! DO IT! Please leave comments about your experience. This thing is so special.

Pitch 1: climb a 5.11a approach pitch. This is alpine with ledges, jugs, and some interesting moves to a great belay, 6 bolts.

Pitch 2: 5.13a/b. Ascend AMAZING, exposed, wild face-climbing with great rests between boulder problems with 2 dynos. A final bulge leads to an airy, runout dyno and mantel a huge jug to the next belay, 13 bolts.

Pitch 3: this is a long 12b pitch with good rests and many interesting boulder problems including a funky mantel. Top out to a glorious and exposed view, and walk out the way you came, 13 bolts.

Location

It is just right of the main sport crag overhang. Camo-bolts make it a bit tricky to find. Ascend the tallest, proudest line on the cliff. Start on vertical jugs just right of a verdant dihedral.

Protection

It is sport. Bring 14 QDs and a 70 meter rope.

Photos

two chains
Fucken Zion
two chains   Fucken Zion
"for the catches on this beast. FA was ground up, no falls"? What in the goddam hell butt hole does that mean? You ground up drilled or you rapped and drilled then TR'ed the hard pitches till you had it down, then sent. No one ground ups and drills 13a. Nope, no way. Video of this ground up FA 13a sport would be nice. Might even be a first! Apr 5, 2017
Boulderdoc Kaufman
Fort Collins, Colorado
 
Boulderdoc Kaufman   Fort Collins, Colorado
 
Thanks, Bruno Hache, for the send belay and Ryan Nelson for developing this place with me and for the catches on this beast! The FA was ground up with no falls. May 3, 2016

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