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Routes in The Roost

Barnyard Bouncehouse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ian's 3 pitch Project S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Ian's Project S 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b
Lightning in a Bottle S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Noah's Project S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Rooster Moans, The S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tell Tale Heart - Noah's Project S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Valhalla S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13
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Type: Sport, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Noah Kaufman
Page Views: 624 total · 23/month
Shared By: Boulderdoc Kaufman on May 2, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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WOW! A Northern Colorado testpiece. This has beautiful and wildly exposed, quality, granite face climbing. It is bouldery with dynos and fat kid climbing as well. Also it is technical.... This thing has it all! 3 pitches of glory! DO IT! Please leave comments about your experience. This thing is so special.

Pitch 1: climb a 5.11a approach pitch. This is alpine with ledges, jugs, and some interesting moves to a great belay, 6 bolts.

Pitch 2: 5.13a/b. Ascend AMAZING, exposed, wild face-climbing with great rests between boulder problems with 2 dynos. A final bulge leads to an airy, runout dyno and mantel a huge jug to the next belay, 13 bolts.

Pitch 3: this is a long 12b pitch with good rests and many interesting boulder problems including a funky mantel. Top out to a glorious and exposed view, and walk out the way you came, 13 bolts.


It is just right of the main sport crag overhang. Camo-bolts make it a bit tricky to find. Ascend the tallest, proudest line on the cliff. Start on vertical jugs just right of a verdant dihedral.


It is sport. Bring 14 QDs and a 70 meter rope.


Boulderdoc Kaufman
Fort Collins, Colorado
Boulderdoc Kaufman   Fort Collins, Colorado
Thanks, Bruno Hache, for the send belay and Ryan Nelson for developing this place with me and for the catches on this beast! The FA was ground up with no falls. May 3, 2016
two chains
Fucken Zion
two chains   Fucken Zion
"for the catches on this beast. FA was ground up, no falls"? What in the goddam hell butt hole does that mean? You ground up drilled or you rapped and drilled then TR'ed the hard pitches till you had it down, then sent. No one ground ups and drills 13a. Nope, no way. Video of this ground up FA 13a sport would be nice. Might even be a first! Apr 5, 2017
Boulderdoc Kaufman
Fort Collins, Colorado
Boulderdoc Kaufman   Fort Collins, Colorado
Haha my bad, you are right, I used the terms incorrectly perhaps. I rap bolted this thing, worked moves, and just meant by that statement that I did all three pitches clean with no falls from the ground to the summit (instead of e.g. sent P1 no falls, worked P2, and then sent 3rd go, etc.). Not sure what the term is for this or if there is one. Just meant that the style it was done in was no falls from the bottom to the top. If I had fallen on P3, I probably would have rapped and tried the whole thing from the bottom again. Sorry about the confusion. Apr 28, 2018

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