Marshmallow Crack
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British PG13
Type: | Trad, 30 ft (9 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 1,139 total · 19/month |
Shared By: | Jordan Cannon on Apr 25, 2016 |
Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
Next step after Marshmallow Tower 10c. Start on the north side of the formation and do some awkward chimney moves between the two boulders to gain the horizontal crack, place a couple pieces where you can and then bust some cruxy moves around the corner on slopers to gain the horizontal finger crack. Bad fall here, no pro through the crux- make sure you have a good belayer, a crashpad might also be a good idea.
I tried this thing about 2 years ago and it seemed impossible, but it's much easier once you figure out the secret knee bar beta. The crux is 5.11 and the finger crack is 5.10+. Falling mid crux isn't that bad, just be ready to swing into the rocks!
I tried this thing about 2 years ago and it seemed impossible, but it's much easier once you figure out the secret knee bar beta. The crux is 5.11 and the finger crack is 5.10+. Falling mid crux isn't that bad, just be ready to swing into the rocks!
1 Comment