Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 781 total · 17/month
Shared By: Jordan Cannon on Apr 25, 2016
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Next step after Marshmallow Tower 10c. Start on the north side of the formation and do some awkward chimney moves between the two boulders to gain the horizontal crack, place a couple pieces where you can and then bust some cruxy moves around the corner on slopers to gain the horizontal finger crack. Bad fall here, no pro through the crux- make sure you have a good belayer, a crashpad might also be a good idea.

I tried this thing about 2 years ago and it seemed impossible, but it's much easier once you figure out the secret knee bar beta. The crux is 5.11 and the finger crack is 5.10+. Falling mid crux isn't that bad, just be ready to swing into the rocks!

Location

Approach via the trail to Tower Two. You can see the Marshmallow Tower from the service road with some slime coming out of the horizontal and an obvious splitter to the top. Bolts on top to rappel.

Protection

Thin to .4 and doubles of .5 camalot, anchors on top.

Photos