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Routes in Scott Cosgrove Memorial Buttress

1964 S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
2016 S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Bombs Away S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
DX, The S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Dita's Play House S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
It Puts the Lotion on its Skin S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kestrel Dihedral S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Jack Marshall
Page Views: 708 total · 31/month
Shared By: ACassebeer on Mar 7, 2016 with updates
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is an overlooked gem and would receive more traffic if people knew it existed. A pure power endurance route on mostly positive holds. No tricks or gimmicks like other hard routes at New Jack. The route is sustained at the V4 to V5 level with a few semi-rests along the way. The hardest single move is probably clipping and moving past the 3rd bolt. However, the upper half of the route has a couple distinct boulder problems thrown in back-to-back and finishes with some small sequential holds that turn on the pump-factor and provide for the redpoint crux.

Location

Down the hill 100ft from The Action (5.13a). This route is best approached by walking past Twin Towers and popping over the shoulder just left of Crooked Dick Spire and into Box Canyon West. Then hike uphill a couple hundred yards while hugging the cliffband on your left. This route is the only one with fixed chain draws in the area, can't miss it.

Protection

All fixed chain draws, including the anchor. All are in decent shape for wear, but a couple had sticky gates as of March 2016.

Photos

Matt Callender
Pasadena CA
  5.12c/d
Matt Callender   Pasadena CA
  5.12c/d
Like ACassebeer said, this route is very very good. Some gates were still sticking when I clipped them, so be aware of that. I've only climbed a dozen or so routes out at NJ to date, but this pitch is superb. Fun moves with good flow, well bolted with chain draws....what's not to like? GET ON IT! (my vote is .12c/d by the way...for whatever that's worth) Jan 4, 2017
ACassebeer
Mojave, CA
 
ACassebeer   Mojave, CA
 
This is my favorite route at New Jack and better than The Travesty in my opinion. Also, I believe it's very doable for the grade. This area is significantly warmer and more sheltered than the other common crags. Best conditions are on cooler days in the afternoon (~2pm or later). Mar 7, 2016