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The DX
5.12d YDS 7c French 28 Ewbanks IX UIAA 28 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 3.5 from 12
votes
Routes in Scott Cosgrove Memorial Buttress
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1964 S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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2016 S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Bombs Away S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Dita's Play House S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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DX, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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It Puts the Lotion on its Skin S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Kestrel Dihedral S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Slip Prone T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c |
| Type: | Sport, 75 ft (23 m) |
| GPS: | 34.66386, -116.97811 |
| FA: | Jack Marshall, Cecilia Hernandez |
| Page Views: | 3,030 total · 25/month |
| Shared By: | Aaron Cassebeer on Mar 7, 2016 · Updates |
| Admins: | C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
This is an overlooked gem and would receive more traffic if people knew it existed. A pure power endurance route on mostly positive holds. No tricks or gimmicks like other hard routes at New Jack. The route is sustained at the V4 to V5 level with a few semi-rests along the way. The hardest single move is probably clipping and moving past the 3rd bolt. However, the upper half of the route has a couple distinct boulder problems thrown in back-to-back and finishes with some small sequential holds that turn on the pump-factor and provide for the redpoint crux.
Location
Down the hill 100ft from The Action (5.13a). This route is best approached by walking past Twin Towers and popping over the shoulder just left of Crooked Dick Spire and into Box Canyon West. Then hike uphill a couple hundred yards while hugging the cliffband on your left. This route is the only one with fixed chain draws in the area, can't miss it.
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