Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Jack Marshall
Page Views: 1,610 total · 33/month
Shared By: Aaron Cassebeer on Mar 7, 2016 with improvements by drjman
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is an overlooked gem and would receive more traffic if people knew it existed. A pure power endurance route on mostly positive holds. No tricks or gimmicks like other hard routes at New Jack. The route is sustained at the V4 to V5 level with a few semi-rests along the way. The hardest single move is probably clipping and moving past the 3rd bolt. However, the upper half of the route has a couple distinct boulder problems thrown in back-to-back and finishes with some small sequential holds that turn on the pump-factor and provide for the redpoint crux.

Location

Down the hill 100ft from The Action (5.13a). This route is best approached by walking past Twin Towers and popping over the shoulder just left of Crooked Dick Spire and into Box Canyon West. Then hike uphill a couple hundred yards while hugging the cliffband on your left. This route is the only one with fixed chain draws in the area, can't miss it.

Protection

All fixed chain draws, including the anchor. All are in decent shape for wear, but a couple had sticky gates as of March 2016.

Photos