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Routes in The Wedge

Crazy Bird V4 6B
Fat Mans Flake V2+ 5+
Leftorium V2- 5+
Type: Boulder, 6 ft
FA: Clint Walker
Page Views: 220 total · 9/month
Shared By: Clint Walker on Mar 3, 2016
Admins: saxfiend

You & This Route


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Description

Start on the flexing flake (same as fat man flake) and dyno straight up towards the point. Keep your feet up to prevent dabbing. Top out over the point.

This would be much easier if the feet were better. You have to get a smeary right foot to push yourself in the right direction. Your left foot is on a better hold but it is too low to make much difference. Have fun!

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Crash pad

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Brad Caldwell
Deep in the Jocassee Gorges
Brad Caldwell   Deep in the Jocassee Gorges
Its just a matter of correctness...the PG13 is unnecessary, but it is "your" route, so do what you will. But I can assure you that others will give you hell for giving a 6' route a safety rating and the fact that Fat Mans Flake uses the same hold but doesnt get that same safety rating. Mar 8, 2016
Clint Walker  
 
If it bothers you that bad I could remove the safety rating all together. Mar 8, 2016
Brad Caldwell
Deep in the Jocassee Gorges
Brad Caldwell   Deep in the Jocassee Gorges
That's perplexingly weird...every time I've added a boulder problem to MP, it has never required me to pick a safety rating. PG13 is usually reserved for a high ball problem with a broken bone potential or a problem with a terrible landing zone that can't be protected well, again with potential to cause substantial damage. A loose flake isn't really a reason to add a safety grade, IMO, for a boulder problem. Mar 7, 2016
Clint Walker  
 
Hey Brad - When adding a boulder problem to Mountain Project the lowest safety grade that can be selected is PG-13. I guess Mountain Project want everyone to be aware that there is always a risk when it comes to climbing.

However, with this problem there is a risk of injury considering the start hold is a flake that flexes for even the lightest people. Pulling hard enough on this flake to do dynamic move can cause it to break off. If that happens 50 lbs or more could be landing on an unfortunate climber.

Don't take my word for it, go check it out yourself! And make sure to try Doctor Hopper, it is the best problem at the crag!
Mar 7, 2016
Brad Caldwell
Deep in the Jocassee Gorges
Brad Caldwell   Deep in the Jocassee Gorges
How can this be PG13 when it seems to be so close to the ground you have to worry about dabbing? You do know PG13 means a risk of moderate injury if you fall on the route, right? This seems far from a bad fall potential. Mar 6, 2016

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