Type: Trad, 200 ft
FA: John Burcham, Albert Newman
Page Views: 325 total · 9/month
Shared By: Trevor Bowman on Feb 29, 2016
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route

8 Opinions

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The chimney cleaving the west face is hard to miss. This can be done in two pitches, with a set of chains at about 80-90', but easily links into one pitch. Cool, varied chimney climbing with a couple trickier spots. There are cracks throughout some of the chimney, and 6 bolts, making this pretty well-protected for a chimney. The top anchors are on a blocky ledge about 10' left of the actual top of the chimney. A short pitch of blocky, ledgy mid-5th class leads to the summit (can be linked with the chimney for a full 70m lead, but rope drag can get bad).


On the west face. Rap from a small tree on the summit to chains (bring extra cord to back up what we left). Two raps from chain anchors to ground.


(1X) .4-#3, 6 bolts, chain anchors, one 60m rope. More or less gear can be brought, depending on your comfort level with moderate chimneys.


Bill Lundeen
Lee Vining, CA
Bill Lundeen   Lee Vining, CA
Great route! I thought it even better than its neighbor, the Original Route on Ten Minute Spire. Only 2 bolts on first pitch, not 3 as mentioned on MP and in Bloom/Wolfe guide. No matter; well protected anyway (1st pitch).

2nd pitch is slightly runout, though not hard, to first bolt (no pro before it with recommended rack. A #6 Camelot would protect it nicely if wanted). No tree on summit anymore to rap off; we downclimbed the 15 ft with a belay back to the rap anchor (which is on the opposite side of the chimney from where it is shown on the photo).

Great route on good rock Oct 17, 2016