Avg: 3.5 from 2 votes
Routes in Eagle's Head Buttress
|Extra-Terror-Estrial T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13|
|Twilight Tower/Boner Jamz Extension , The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13|
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 500 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Cole Lawrence, Conor Dysinger, Peter Caracciolo|
|Page Views:||233 total, 11/month|
|Shared By:||petercaracciolo on Feb 15, 2016|
DescriptionThis is one rowdy route! Bring your head game! Climbs two of Mill's best features: the imposing mega arch up under the giant roof and the E.T. Roof finger crack on the upper headwall of Eagle's Head Buttress. Gear is good when you have it, spicy climbing the entire way! Harden up and get it! This is what night terrors are made of!
Pitch 1-(5.11) Start on the face right of the arch, looking for some bolts. Delicate climbing will join you with the imposing, blocky arch at about 30' up. Stem, twist, body wedge, and ninja your way through the arch to the small horizontal roof. Clip the bolt the fire over to the anchors. Insane pitch. Props to CL for putting this up ground up.
Pitch 2-(5.10) Whew! This pitch is even scary to follow! Traverse left out from under the mega roof, aiming at the edge. Tread lightly here. Establish yourself on the face and pull the bulge to the anchors. Keep it together and DFU.
Pitch 3-(5.10) Follow the incipient weakness straight up with just enough gear. As the steepness eases continue climbing up and left towards the obvious right facing corner above.
Pitch 4-(5.10) Climb the steep corner, following the bolt right at the top (same corner as pitch 4 of Boner Jamz).
Pitch 5-(5.12-) E.T. Roof pitch. Wow! Amazing, over-hanging finger crack! Good pro and a few decent rests. Once over the lip, climb up and left on little pro. Don't miss the pod!