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Routes in Eagle's Head Buttress

Extra-Terror-Estrial T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Twilight Tower/Boner Jamz Extension , The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Type: Trad, Alpine, 500 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Cole Lawrence, Conor Dysinger, Peter Caracciolo
Page Views: 233 total, 11/month
Shared By: petercaracciolo on Feb 15, 2016
Admins: grk10vq

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Description

This is one rowdy route! Bring your head game! Climbs two of Mill's best features: the imposing mega arch up under the giant roof and the E.T. Roof finger crack on the upper headwall of Eagle's Head Buttress. Gear is good when you have it, spicy climbing the entire way! Harden up and get it! This is what night terrors are made of!

Pitch 1-(5.11) Start on the face right of the arch, looking for some bolts. Delicate climbing will join you with the imposing, blocky arch at about 30' up. Stem, twist, body wedge, and ninja your way through the arch to the small horizontal roof. Clip the bolt the fire over to the anchors. Insane pitch. Props to CL for putting this up ground up.
Pitch 2-(5.10) Whew! This pitch is even scary to follow! Traverse left out from under the mega roof, aiming at the edge. Tread lightly here. Establish yourself on the face and pull the bulge to the anchors. Keep it together and DFU.
Pitch 3-(5.10) Follow the incipient weakness straight up with just enough gear. As the steepness eases continue climbing up and left towards the obvious right facing corner above.
Pitch 4-(5.10) Climb the steep corner, following the bolt right at the top (same corner as pitch 4 of Boner Jamz).
Pitch 5-(5.12-) E.T. Roof pitch. Wow! Amazing, over-hanging finger crack! Good pro and a few decent rests. Once over the lip, climb up and left on little pro. Don't miss the pod!

Location

Follow the Upper Tier until you are standing below the mega arch.

Protection

1 set Stoppers, 2 sets cams .33″-3″, TCU/Aliens, RP's

Photos

Harrison Schutt
Missoula, MT
Harrison Schutt   Missoula, MT
Andrew and I climbed the first 3 pitches of Eagle's Head Direct to link up with Boner Jamz. It was great climbing on pretty loose rock, which made things quite spooky. I didn't lead pitch 1 or 2, but pitch 1 certainly felt easier (or at least less sustained) than pitch two.

Pitch two was pretty terrifying even for me to watch. The runout from a gnarly looking old piton to the bolt isn't super hard, but the rock quality is not inspiring. After the bolt, both of us got pretty gripped climbing to the chains and felt it was at least 5.10+ even though it was short.

P3 and 4 were cleaner and less scary than the others, but had their fair share of loose stuff. Good fun, and easily protected.

It should clean up nicely with traffic! Thanks bunch to the guys who put it up! Aug 16, 2017