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Routes in Eagle's Head Buttress

Extra-Terror-Estrial T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Twilight Tower/Boner Jamz Extension , The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Type: Trad, Alpine, 500 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Unknown/Peter Caracciolo, Cole Lawrence
Page Views: 165 total, 8/month
Shared By: petercaracciolo on Feb 15, 2016
Admins: grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

This combination of old and new pitches adds up to one fabulous route. Twilight Tower/Boner Jams Extension is a powerful route that climbs mainly flawless granite up the Eagle’s Head Buttress in Mill Creek. Other than the wandering, slightly run-out first pitch, the rock is superb. Twilight Tower climbs through one of Mill Creek’s most aesthetic corners. The Boner Jams Extension then traverses right into a steep, featured corner system leading to the top. All anchors are bolted. Please leave quick links! Carry replacement webbing or cord.

Pitch 1-(5.7) Work up grey ramp and then traverse face on ledges, aiming up and left at a shallow corner. Climb up corner to anchors.
Pitch 2-(5.10) Climb up corner through the small roof on positive flakes. Continue up to anchors at the base of the Twilight Tower
Pitch 3-(5.10+) Climb the pristine, arching corner and pull the bulge. Follow the wide crack up and left to anchor on ledge.
Pitch 4-(5.7) Traverse ledge system out right to corner system and anchors.
Pitch 5-(5.10) Follow clean corner up to the start of the ET roof variation on the right at the top of the corner. Don't go right towards the bolt, finish up and left onto a block and the anchors.
Pitch 6-(5.11) Climb up shallow corner and pull through broken roofs. Continue up and right, exiting on the right face.

Location

The start of the first pitch can be found just beyond the mega arch, down and right of the obvious Twilight Tower. The first few anchors can be seen from the ground. Rappel the route with two 60m ropes. Do not reverse the pitch three traverse. Rap straight down over Extra-terror-estrial.

Protection

1 set Stoppers, 2 sets cams .33″-3″, TCU/Aliens

Photos

Harrison Schutt
Missoula, MT
 
Harrison Schutt   Missoula, MT
 
Andrew and I climbed the top 2 pitches of Boner Jamz yesterday, approaching it from the first 3 pitches of Eagle's Head Direct start. Overall, we had a great time on route as the climbing was varied and interesting, but I got pretty spooked by the rock quality. We both trundled a few 100+ lb rocks off the route, and many smaller chunks on nearly every pitch. There is A LOT of choss up there, and while most of the really scary loose rock can be avoided some hollow flakes might be mandatory. This route is a true adventure!

I cannot speak to the first pitches, but pitch 4 and 5 were pretty sweet (minus the rock quality). There is a good finger crack section on p4 with a bit of an awkward traverse at the top. I followed pitch 5 and had a blast.

While this route might not be for all, any 5.11+ climber who is looking for a spicy adventure should try it. This route will be great with more traffic! And wear a helmet!! Aug 16, 2017