Type: Sport, 190 ft (58 m), 2 pitches
GPS: 48.0143, 16.04896
FA: H. Schwanda & A. Auger 1931
Page Views: 953 total · 8/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Jan 25, 2016
Admins: Shawn Heath

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Description Suggest change

Classic romp up big, steep features on great rock.

This route and Vegetariersteig (1902!) are the old, established classics at this crag.

Pitch one starts on the same broken terrain as Alpenclubsteig (1896!) but then trends up left joining up a cracky section with grassy holes to a belay stance below an iron cross.

Pitch two continues up the face to the left of an edge (Direkte Vegetarierkante 5+ UIAA, also a classic pitch). Exposed and polished.

Note that the local guidebook rates this route a 3 (p1) and 4 (p2) on the UIAA scale. That would be around French 3 or YDS 5.4 but, I think the grades might be a little stiff here...

Location Suggest change

Located on the left edge corner of the bottom of the Cimone Coulior.

Either rappel route (two rappels with a single 60m rope, or, one rappel on double 60's) or walk down the trail in the Cimone Coulior.

Protection Suggest change

Bolt protected but fledgling leaders might find the spacing a bit sparse. Route definitely takes supplemental protection (nuts/cams).

Fixed anchors and ram's horns rappel anchors.

Photos

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