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Routes in Southern Wall

Beans and Baby Dicks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Lung S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bob's Chimney T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Chieftain S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Concierge S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Family Jules T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Grandpa's Watching T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Layin' in the Shade S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Southern Bell T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Southern Comfort T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Women and Children First T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Ryan Myers, Aaron Collins, Manuel Rangel, Ryan Chamberlain, Leonardo Ramirez, Brian Stetson
Page Views: 349 total · 10/month
Shared By: Ryan Myers on Oct 6, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Another awesome addition to the Southern Wall. Climb fun and varied movements including delicate arete climbing, an exposed traverse and a sweet roof to get through. Start under same roof as Southern Comfort but climb out left. From there climb straight up the arete and at the top traverse left to a good rest underneath the roof. After pulling the crux you will be on a ledge 20ft from the anchors faced with a few final moves. Really enjoyable route!

Location

Just left of Southern Comfort. Starts with the same roof as Southern Comfort but goes out left, then heads straight up to the arete.

Protection

8 bolts

Photos

arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.10+
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.10+
What a fabulous route!!! This was super fun and a great one to end my time up here on. Thanks, absolutely loved this one. Jun 17, 2016
Ryan Myers
Tempe, Arizona
 
Ryan Myers   Tempe, Arizona
 
Thanks Arjun! Glad you liked it.. one of my favorites in the area too Jun 20, 2016
Ryan Myers
Tempe, Arizona
 
Ryan Myers   Tempe, Arizona
 
Thanks for the update Charles.
I went to check on many of the bolts at the Southern Wall and Memorial wall on 4/20/17.

Upon initial inspection, I found at the 6th bolt the nut and hanger were both loose, and the hanger and nut both missing on the second bolt as mentioned by previous party. We climbed Southern Comfort and rappelled down Laying in the Shade for a better inspection.

I tightened each bolt on the way down, even if not loose.

I believe the reason for the crux bolt hanger (6th) to be coming loose is the sharp angle between bolts 5 and 6 when someone takes or whips at the crux. For this reason I have tightened the hanger in its desired weighted position (more at an angle towards the 5th bolt than straight up and down). I tightened this bolt as much as i could and hope it no longer gets torqued loose. **PLEASE check before committing to the crux and hand tighten if needed** If this continues to be an issue I can replace with a glue in.

The second bolt hanger has been replaced and tightened.

The second bolt becoming loose is still a bit of a mystery, but my thoughts are maybe it could be due to the second bolt being slightly more recessed than bolts 1 and 3 causing the draw to pull outward on the hanger when the rope is weighted from above at the crux. Maybe use a slightly longer draw if you have one here. Maybe it could be caused by a sharp angle between bolts 1 & 2 and belayer, if the belayer is back away from the wall and laying in the shade ;)

I take a lot of pride in helping put up fun and safe routes and I appreciate any feedback or concerns.

We lead the route after checking, tightening and replacing hanger #2. The route seems to be back in safe condition. Please update if you find any loose hangers in the future. Thanks

Other routes checked...
-Never Forget aka Katelyn Conrad
-Black Lung
-Concierge Apr 21, 2017

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