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Routes in North Face of Rainbow Mountain

North Face of Rainbow Mountain T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Smokescreen T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
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Type: Trad, Grade IV
FA: 2010
Page Views: 751 total · 20/month
Shared By: Michael Abbey on Aug 30, 2015
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

A direct line straight up the face. Stellar climbing on faces and cracks. Many bolted belays and cruxes. An airy section of 11a (arguably R-rated.) Otherwise, reasonably protected adventure climbing. Could be classic...

Protection

Rack. 2 ropes. rappel route or climb to top of mountain.

Photos

Josh Janes    
 
This route is really good and deserves to be climbed more. Thanks for sharing it.

A touch more beta: The topo, if you can read it, is spot on. The 5.11a "arguably R-rated" bit is well-protected with a #5 BD Stopper or equivalent. An adequate rack would be doubles from Blue Alien to 0.75 Camalot and single #1, #2, and #3 Camalots, and stoppers (we brought but didn't place RP's).

Consider bringing 10x quicklinks and bits of chain or rings for improving anchors. May 4, 2018

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