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Routes in Unknown Crag

Stampede T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 302 total · 8/month
Shared By: Forest Altherr on Aug 16, 2015
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15 Details

Description

Starts on the left side of a thick arching flake. Ascends the flake partially then steps left to a tips crack. Plug a small cam or offset nut and fire a short lieback (Crux)then continue through a bulge, left facing corner, and hand crack to finish.

There are no fixed anchors and this route will require that you walk off the slab at the top. Head up from the cliff's edge and eventually find a horizontal crack leading to the south that will allow you to walk off safely and with minimal scrambling.

Location

The approach is similar to that for the Tank. Head North on the trail past May Lake High Sierra Camp. Once a small lake is observed on the right (It may be dry late in the season) head East and drop over the ridge. Continue North along the cliff and the route will be visible before entering a large amphitheater. The route is climber's left of the amphitheater.

Protection

Nuts and doubles from small cams to #2 Camalot. A #3 is optional but might be nice for a couple moves.

Photos

The wall you are describing has been climbed many times before. At least four routes as of 2004. There are bolted anchors in two places to facilitate an easy descent. Sep 21, 2015

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