Type: Sport, 141 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown to poster
Page Views: 1,021 total · 19/month
Shared By: Brennan Crellin on Aug 15, 2015
Admins: Mike Engle

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

P1 (24m): Climbs through several ledges, with huecos and jug rails between. The 10a crux is a distinct section of blank rock, in the middle of the pitch, offering little more than smeared feet and a very short (6") vertical finger crack, to setup for a large reach. Some body english will make this crux engaging and accurate at 10-

P2 (18m): An easier pitch climbs through a series of larger ledges, on jugs. This pitch also offers a distinct crux from a solid stance on a large foot ledge with a couple crimps and only smeared feet, to mantle the left slanting ramp feature halfway through. Again, smart movement will make this crux about 9+

Descent:
a) The route (both pitches) can be rappelled with an 80m rope (to the op of the boulder that is on the right of the start), with rope stretch exactly.
b) Each pitch could be rappelled individually with a 60m rope.
c) The (huge) ledge at P2 anchors could be traversed left, and up. Some bolts exist to protect the traverse around the left arete (easy 4/5th class). Hike off climber's right.

Location

This is the second bolted route, on the face, to the right of the chimney (Big Ernies Revenge). Starts a few feet left of a large boulder.

Route #6 in this
Thinking spot topo 9/13, more to come....

Protection

P1: >10 quickdraws
P2: >8 quickdraws

Each pitch ends at a two-bolt anchor. P1 anchor is rap rings on hangers. P2 anchor is 1ft chains on hangers.

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