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Four on the Floor
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.8 from 6
votes
Early Access
Routes in Lower Bulldog Cliff
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Bush Pilot S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Coyote Ugly S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Eager Beaver S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Four on the Floor T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Johnny Come Lately S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Other White Meat, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tight Fit S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
| Type: |
Trad, 75 ft (23 m)
Fixed Hardware
(6) |
| GPS: | 39.12615, -106.66736 |
| FA: | Michael Benge |
| Page Views: | 1,058 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Joseph Crotty on Jul 31, 2015 |
| Admins: | Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
This is an Indy Pass classic for the grade. It's on you from the moment you leave the ground. At the second clip, traverse right and then directly up on solid but spaced out holds. A second crux awaits at the last bolt.
Location
Around the corner and a bit uphill from Bush Pilot, find a decent flat dirt and rock platform. Climb the overhanging semi-gash to the first clip, and it's game on. The slightly right-leaning, 20' crack/rib feature above the roof is unmistakable.
Protection
Four bolts to a two bolt anchor with chains.
You can bring a few finger and hand-sized pieces for the flared lieback section above the roof before the last bolt, but it's so flared nothing fast and bomber is available - it is best to skip the gear and punch it to the last bolt and then get down to business.
2 Comments