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Routes in McInnis Canyons

Cowboy Hat, The A1
Devil's Disciple I T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2
Devil's Disciple II T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A1
Little Bighorn A1
Phantom Spire C1+
Pitchfork Tower - From the Depths of Hell T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Split Decision T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, Aid, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Bill Forest and Steve French 1981
Page Views: 195 total · 6/month
Shared By: Paul S on Jun 21, 2015
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Keep on Trails, Som areas are wilderness and cannot be bolted on. Details

Description

The Disciples are some of the harder summits to reach in the area. The grades are moderate, but they're a bit stiff compared to other towers around the Monument and are a serious undertaking considering the long approach, loose rock and lack of quality protection at times. To keep the adventure alive and well on these, I'll be brief on the details, but I wanted to point out a few things that'll help the next party along and recognize Bill Forrest and Steve French, these are stout lines!

The second Disciple looks like it'll be easy, but bad rock, large pods within the chimney, sand choked cracks, loose blocks, detached flakes, bad pro, hollow panels, flared seems, and a whole lot of pack rack shit make it a hard tick.

The climb goes up the obvious gash on the west side for 3 pitches. There's a small section of nailing on the second pitch after a traverse right at a fixed pin. On rappel, it looked possible to remain in the crack system you start out on for P2 after the pin and then traverse right with free climbing at a thin ~1 inch sloping edge. If this worked out, you wouldn't need to nail.

Linking P2 & P3 would prevent a hanging belay at old pins that's in the firing path for all the loose rock on the pitch above. If doing this, bring extra fingers and down pro.

Location

In the back of Devil's Canyon, they're the obvious towers above the cabin.

Protection

Double set from micro cams to #5 BD, 1 #6, and a few thin Lost Arrows. All the rappels down are from slung features, bring extra rope/cord to replace. Two double rope raps get you back to the ground.

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