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Routes in Grave Wall

Grave T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unleashed T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Tom Gilje
Page Views: 74 total · 2/month
Shared By: jakobi on Jun 10, 2015
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

I'll start off by saying that this route was originally rated as 11+ but my partner and I both thought the crux was solid 12, perhaps holds have broken or perhaps Gilje is just a badass, either way expect to try hard on this route.
Begin scrambling left off the ledge past a drilled angle, climb through a chossy-looking face on solid jugs, side-pulls and underclings to where the crack begins. Follow the off-fingers crack up to a small roof where the crack pinches down to less than tips. Getting past the roof is very cryptic and physical and I won't say anymore as to not spoil it for those who come after. Beyond the roof you'll enter a flared chimney, and the crack opens up to accept your fingers once again. Squirm up the chimney, jamming the cack and getting occasional stances on features. Towards the top the crack pinches down to tips and tighter but features appear to keep things reasonable.
The word is that Gilje took the route beyond the current anchors to where the two routes would have shared a common anchor and from below it seems strange to end the climb below what looks like a splitter crack. Upon closer inspection the splitter is actually an offset seem and I have no doubt Gilje would've had the grit to pull it off but it would've upped the seriousness factor quite a bit as the seem looks hard and appears to be protectable with marginal rp's and maybe a micro cam here and there.

Location

The obvious flared chimney and the left route on the Grave Wall

Protection

1x .1
1x .2
4x .3
2x .4
5x .5
1x. 75
3x green aliens.

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