Type: Sport, 120 ft (36 m)
GPS: 38.9308, -120.11112
FA: Nils Davis and Steve Newell, circa 2000
Page Views: 5,755 total · 44/month
Shared By: Vlad S on May 27, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

4 stars is not enough to describe this amazing route! This is the gem of the area and is worth the hike all on its own. Originally rated 12a, it's definitely one of the best 5.12s in Tahoe.

Start out by climbing up the juniper and feel the soft bark in your hands. Bring a sling or two for protection, since you have to stand up on the highest branches to clip the first bolt. Tip-toe to the very top of the tree, while starting the initial layback, where you can clip the 2nd bolt.

What follows is an amazing journey through some very cool terrain. Mostly sidepulls and underclings - most holds are perfectly positioned and naturally rounded. The doorknob hold is pretty wild! This pumpy line has several mini-cruxes, none of which are very hard. Just remember - the pump clock starts ticking once you leave the tree!

As far as I remember, a 70 m rope will almost get you down to the ground, so be prepared to climb a few feet down the tree and watch the ends when lowering.

Location Suggest change

Starts ON the largest juniper in the middle of the cliff

Protection Suggest change

13 bolts, lower-off anchors.  80m rope or mandatory down-climbing of the tree.  Might also want a couple slings for branches.

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