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Routes in Cascade Cliff

Blue Sky Black Clouds S 5.14b/c 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b
Joe Bunyan S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
On Beyond Zebra S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Rasputin S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Right warm-up S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
South Tahoe Two-Step T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tree Beard S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Weekend at Bernie's S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Type: Sport, 120 ft
FA: Nils Davis 2000
Page Views: 1,414 total, 46/month
Shared By: Vlad S on May 27, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

4 stars is not enough to describe this amazing route! This is the gem of the area and is worth the hike all on its own. Originally rated 12a, it's definitely one of the best 5.12s in Tahoe.

Start out by climbing up the juniper and feel the soft bark in your hands. Bring a sling or two for protection, since you have to stand up on the highest branches to clip the first bolt. Tip-toe to the very top of the tree, while starting the initial layback, where you can clip the 2nd bolt.

What follows is an amazing journey through some very cool terrain. Mostly sidepulls and underclings - most holds are perfectly positioned and naturally rounded. The doorknob hold is pretty wild! This pumpy line has several mini-cruxes, none of which are very hard. Just remember - the pump clock starts ticking once you leave the tree!

As far as I remember, a 70 m rope will almost get you down to the ground, so be prepared to climb a few feet down the tree and watch the ends when lowering.

Location

Starts ON the largest juniper in the middle of the cliff

Protection

13 bolts + sling on the tree.

Photos

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