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Routes in The Tombstone

Redtail T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 538 total · 16/month
Shared By: Ketchup on Apr 17, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

AKA THE OPTIMIZER or Tombstone crack

A sick right facing corner that lures you in with an easy start then turns up the dial into tight hands and rattling fingers. Occasional hand jams help keep you upward, but then flare to an OW finish. Cruxes abound. 1st crux is below the bail nut. Second is above it where the crack goes to finger stacks (least secure). Third is diving into the offwidth. Two bolts for an anchor with some West Desert trash on them. Superb quality throughout!

Location

The obvious right crack on the south face of the Tombstone.

Protection

Double C4s .3-3, bring an extra tight hands gear and a #5 for the finish. There's a fixed bail nut about half way, below the crux. I wouldn't whip on it.

Photos

madskates
slc
 
madskates   slc
 
No fixed ball nut that i could find. Not sure what some would consider the crux but that exit move into the o.w was sure the crux for me. This may be one of the cleanest lines i've ever been on, must do if your in the area. May 1, 2015