Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: Tom Smith, Krista Smith, Larry Von Wald, 1984
Page Views: 265 total · 6/month
Shared By: David J. Jefferson on Apr 4, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Dirt road winter closures Details

Description

Start on the slab south face of the Phantom Wall. Pull onto the slab and make delicate face moves with slopey knobs for feet and long reaches. Clip two bolts before making a long reach left to gain the thin, tips crack. Note that there are two bolts right next to each other at the second bolt - a buttonhead and a newer 3/8". Avoid clipping the third bolt - this will lead to rope drag up higher (the third bolt is for the adjacent face route Eraserhead (5.11c).

Climb the tips crack as it gradually gives good locks, and knobs appear for alternative holds. Once this crack peters out, place a piece and make a face traverse left to gain the fist crack. Follow this left crack to the top and finish by pulling a small roof.

There is an older two bolt anchor on top of the formation, but no rap rings. Descend by bushwhacking down a steep gully to climber's right.

Location

South face of the Phantom Wall, east of the Lower Spire.

Protection

Gear micro cams/nuts to 3". Draws and at least one sling for the traverse.

Photos

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This is an awesome pitch, one on my favorites at Phantom Spires. I remember a purple Metolius/blue Alien being helpful at the start of the crack, after clipping the second bolt.

This pitch is worth the walk down to the Lower Spire alone. Apr 10, 2015
Super classic Yosemite style clean crack that starts tiny and slowly widens to big hands. Well worth the thrash down to it. Gets nice morning sun.
It's not 11b. It has and always will be 11a
Electra is a variation steep start around the corner and 11b (not 11c) Dec 29, 2017