Type: Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 7 pitches
FA: Mike Layton, Dan Cappellini, Rolf Larson (July 2005)
Page Views: 18,493 total · 232/month
Shared By: Shaun Johnson on Jan 10, 2015 · Updates
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

You & This Route


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Description

Acid Baby is one of the finest alpine rock climbs in the Stuart Range. Providing seven pitches of traditionally protected climbing on amazing rock, this is a trip you'll never forget. Not only is Acid Baby one of the only 5.10s in the range, with the exception on its neighbor the Valkyrie; it is quite sustained, with the easiest pitches being 5.9. Add in one of the longest weather windows, and being located in an incredibly scenic part of the Alpine Lakes Wilderness; and what do you get? An unforgettable trip.

P1 (5.9) - Climb cracks to a corner, and belay on a ledge.

P2 (5.10+) - Ascend a steep corner to easier cracks.

P3 (5.9) - Climb the slab upward, than traverse right.

P4 (5.10) - Go up splitter hands to a ridgeline, then traverse left.

P5 (5.10+) - Climb the corner to a roof, then continue the corner.

P6 (5.10-) - Ascend cracks to a belay under the prominent prow.

P7 (5.9) - Follow the ridgeline to a short downclimb.

Location

2/3 up Aasgard Pass on the east side.

Protection

I suggest bringing a double rack from blue alien to #3 Camalot and a set of wired stoppers. All the pitches on my topo above can be done with a 60 meter rope.

Photos