Type: Trad, 1000 ft, 7 pitches
FA: Mike Layton, Dan Cappellini, Rolf Larson (July 2005)
Page Views: 10,767 total · 210/month
Shared By: Shaun Johnson on Jan 10, 2015
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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57 Opinions

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Acid Baby is one of the finest alpine rock climbs in the Stuart Range. Providing seven pitches of traditionally protected climbing on amazing rock, This is a trip you will never forget. Not only is Acid Baby one of the only 5.10s in the range, with the exeption on its neighbor the Valkary; it is quite sustained with the easiest pitches being 5.9. Add in one of the longest weather windows, and being located in an incredibly scenic part of the Alpine Lakes Wilderness; and what do you get? An unforgettable trip.


2/3 up Aasgard Pass on the east side.


I suggest bringing a double rack from blue alien to #3 Camalot and a set of wired stoppers. All the pitches on my topo above can be done with a 60 meter rope.
Jessica T
seattle, wa
Jessica T   seattle, wa
This route is fun alpine with some pretty great cracks and spectacular perspectives of dragontail, colchuck, stuart, Daniel, etc..

Route is mostly 5.9 to 5.10b (sustained) with about a 10 foot section of 10d about midway on P4 after exiting the 5.8 crack. Gear to 3 inch is fine. We brought a #4 and didn’t need it. Walk off is easy/nice, and rounds out the alpine adventure though would be more challenging with snow.

Safety notes: (1) There are a lot of loose rocks/blocks throughout the route, especially on P3 (tiptoe through the corner!) and the top of the offwidth on P6. (2) P7 pitch -if you blow it, the rope is running over a very sharp edge-though it’s easy. Think about it, and you can make it safe.

P6 note: My partner decided to climb the layback up most of the “finger” on P6 after the slab. This was fun. It deposits you right on the final ridge. Jun 15, 2015
Las Vegas, NV
Ashort   Las Vegas, NV
Great route, sustained, fun climbing.

Pitch 3 definitely has some loose blocks, but there is an especially dangerous toaster oven sized block that will go at the slightest touch. It can be climbed around, but if it let loose it will likely hit your belayer. It is about 5 meters below where you start traversing right under the roof. Aug 24, 2015
Brian Ladd
Bend, Oregon
Brian Ladd   Bend, Oregon
Super rad route. Finding was difficult as we kept thinking it was lower on the pass. Hike way up the pass until you think you are too far up and you will see it on the left.
Only notes are the death blocks on pitch 3 and 5. Would have loved to clean but the pass hiking trail is right below the route. If anyone if ever up there when nobody is hiking the pass it may be a good idea to lose a few of those blocks. They are one finger loose and weigh hundreds of pounds.
Pitches often 10-20 meters short of the map description. Walk-off descent fairly easy. Once you go past the summit ridge go down the second gully to the right (not rap gully with tree). Billy goat down and to always trend left and it becomes obvious.
We ended up using the 4" quite a bit. Sep 1, 2015
Great route - doable as a car to car mission. For more info see link to my trip report jadelittlewood.wordpress.co… Mar 6, 2017
Matthew Tangeman
Bellingham, WA
Matthew Tangeman   Bellingham, WA
With a 70m rope and some long slings, P5 and P6 (or 4 and 5, depending on how you do it) can be linked. P6 is a very short pitch otherwise.

Also thought P6 (or P5, 5.10-) was the easiest pitch on the climb. Felt closer to 5.8 than 5.10.

The crux of the 5.9 corner to traverse pitch (2 or 3) is not pulling off any number of flakes down onto your belayer. Chimneying the corner is probably the easiest way to avoid yarding on all the choss. Careful where you place your gear!

Classic route! I had a goat waiting for me at the very end of the knife edge just after the downclimb, he wasn't afraid and wasn't gonna let me climb down and build a belay, either... Jun 23, 2017
Amazing route! Definitely worth doing in a day if you are a solid 5.10 leader. One note, the guide book says to link the first 5.9 portion with the upper corner, if you do make sure to save a #2, #3 and #4 for the upper 5.10 crack. Makes it easy to plug and chug Jul 12, 2017
Kevin MP
Redmond, OR
Kevin MP   Redmond, OR
Great route with an exciting finish. Makes a nice "shortcut" over to Prusik if you're into really big days. I'm not sure about the recommendation on P1 to link the 5.9 first section into the 5.10 corner above, especially if climbing near your limit. There is a large ledge at the base of the 5.10 corner that would make an easy belay. With over 30m of rope out when linking this, I felt like a ledge fall was a real possibility until I was a good ways up the 5.10 corner. Aug 28, 2017
Max Rausch
Portland, OR
  5.10c/d PG13
Max Rausch   Portland, OR
  5.10c/d PG13
Great route, with the occasional loose block. We opted to lead the first corner as a second pitch. Too much rope was out, and ledge fall potential was real if we had linked them. All together, my partner and I both thought the route was soft for 10+. It should also be mentioned that the last pitch "Fin traverse," was one of THE scariest, yet coolest leads I've ever done. At certain points the rope runs back and forth over the fin, and a fall for either leader or follower will surely cut the rope. Mucho Spicy. For the descent, after the 5.6 down climb, continue walking around and up to a small notch. Go down the loose gully hugging the left wall and climb up a small terraced ledge. 30min to ground. Don't go down the gully directly beneath the 5.6 down climb!! Aug 6, 2018
Daniel Bookless
Portland, OR
Daniel Bookless   Portland, OR
More like Crack Baby, am I right?!?!?
⭐️ ⭐️ ⭐️ ⭐️ Sep 25, 2018
Daniel Bookless
Portland, OR
Daniel Bookless   Portland, OR

So, I lead the final fin traverse and did NOT find it to be very intuitive; in fact, it was quite frightful given the severe consequences of a fall. Thus for anyone that wants some simple yet helpful beta, read the following. At the same time, it was pretty fun to solve the little boulder problem.

So, when you get to the pinnacle of the fin, you will probably stop and ponder for a while. What I did and what it looks like everyone else ends up doing, is step over to the opposite side (not the lake side), work you hands along the fin (which is rather positive). There is some subtle but good high feet (above hip height) so that you can then mantle up onto the top of the fin; its exciting but no harder than a simple little V1 move. At this point its easy again and your back on the lake side of the fin traversing leftward. (you may be able to sling the top of the fin for protection, i didn't, i just ran it out and slung a wedged and wiggling chock stone further left.

Hopefully this helpful, sorry if anyone is offended, Its just a tad stressful to be runnout on such a dicey knife blade. Sep 26, 2018