Type: Trad, 1000 ft, 6 pitches, Grade II
FA: Blake Herrington, Scott and Graham, June 2012
Page Views: 4,675 total · 119/month
Shared By: Priti Wright on Sep 27, 2015
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Description

It was a quality climb with only a few spots of dirty or mungy climbing. Crux is 2nd pitch.

Pitches:

P1. Up slab 5.8 to corner which is fun and protects well 5.10-. Belay at the orange
wall, big horn 10ft below orange rock. 5.10- 55m

P2. Step out right and into crack (fairly heady move) 5.10b/c. Continue up widening crack to a short off-width. A #3 cam fits in the back half way up, but the last ten feet it is useful to have a #5 if you are not comfortable with offwidth. Continue up to left facing hand crack 5.10. Belay at the end here on horn, semi-hanging belay or with a 70 continue straight up for another ~25m on face holds and cracks to a blocky belay. 5.10 55m

P3. Straight up cracks on the prow. Veer left at an angling ramp to a great belay ledge. 5.10- 35m

P4. Starts with a hidden traverse on jugs, straight right for 25', pull right under a hanging arĂȘte into splitter hands and fists not visible from below. Don't be tempted to go up the first cracks you see, if you keep going right you will get to the great hand crack. 5.8+ 40m

P5. Starts with easy cracks, and aim for the awesome steep headwall with a left arching splitter finger crack and wild knobs. When the finger cracks peters out you move up and right on knob jugs to the tower's prow. Belay here where it joins with the last pitch of acid baby. 5.10- 35m

P6. This is also the last pitch of Acid Baby. A wild ridge traverse with great exposure leads you to the top of a gully. Stick to the top for maximum fun. 5.9 40m~

Descent: Go up and around one more rock buttress and up and over a small col. Go down the chossy gully. There's a little 5.0 non-exposed downclimbing, and traverse on some ledges aiming for a small lake. Continue traversing to join the Aasgard Pass trail.

Alternatively continue up further to a larger chossy gully and down to the small lake and on to the trail.

Location

To the left of Acid Baby

Protection

Double rack to 3" and a #5 if you want to protect a 10' offwidth section.
Brett Purchase
Seattle, Washington
 
Brett Purchase   Seattle, Washington
 
Great route. Maybe only slightly more difficult than the Stanley Burgner on Prusik and also similar in style of climbing Nov 5, 2016
Eli .
GMC3500
 
Eli .   GMC3500
 
Beta alert, purists need not read on.

On pitch two you can skip the wide section by making a reachy move out left to some funky knobs. I usually like to climb wide, but this seemed like a viable way to go at a moderate grade. Save both #2s for the hand crack.

By going directly up from the top of pitch 3 (pitch 4 if you did an intermediate belay after the wide bit on p2) skipping the slabby flakes traverse, you can link p3 and p4 in another 55+ meter pitch. That variation is significantly more direct, and probably goes at 10+/++. This route goes by very quickly if you do the the first bit in three 190 foot monster pitches. We had weather move in and it allowed us to get off the formation significantly faster than we thought it would be.

Not sure where the 10- knobs were on p4, I went up easy terrain to the left, then traversed right into a left facing corner that led to the last belay ledge.

The crux of this route for me was p1, the slab was essentially a waterfall and the 'roof' was filled with ice and loose junk.

To descend hike uphill, possibly up some steep snow depending on season, and drop into a major gully that leads back to aasguard pass.

Super fun route! Highly recommended. Jun 20, 2017
Jim Jam
Wenatchee, WA
  5.10b/c
Jim Jam   Wenatchee, WA
  5.10b/c
Bit O' kitty litter and loose flakes/rock in the cracks throughout. Especially in the steep section of P1, climb with care. Huge moving block right where you need to stand on the belay ledge at the top of p4, be careful not to knock it on your belayer. Good route overall. Good alternative to acid baby if there are crowds (weekends) Jun 25, 2017
IJMayer
Anacortes, WA
 
IJMayer   Anacortes, WA
 
Fun climb with lots of cracks! I thought the upper part of the first pitch was the most physical, and the upper finger crack was the most technical.

For the descent, we thought the gully descent was quick and easy. We got cliffed out, and had to back track a bit, and still made it down in just under an hour. Here is what we did (minus getting cliffed out).

After the last belay, hike/scramble uphill roughly 100 feet and look down and right for the next gully. Stay to the skier's left side and exit this gully on the skier's left above some really clean white low angle slabs. That puts you into another gully closer to Aasgard pass. From here we barely descend (maybe 15 vertical feet) before we traversed skier's left directly across the gully towards some large black stacked boulders, which we traversed around. The stacked boulders continue angling down and skier's left, and we followed them back down to a nice flat meadow. Then we headed skier's right down the hiker's path down to our packs. Jul 7, 2018