5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.4 from 45 votes
|Type:||Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 6 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Blake Herrington, Scott Bennet & Graham Zimmerman (2012)|
|Page Views:||10,323 total · 111/month|
|Shared By:||Priti Wright on Sep 27, 2015 · Updates|
|Admins:||Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters|
You & This Route
Your To-Do List:Add To-Do ·
Your Difficulty Rating:
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
It was a quality climb with only a few spots of dirty or mungy climbing. Crux is 2nd pitch.
P1 (5.10-, 180ft) - Climb up 5.8 slab to corner which is fun and protects well - crux is 5.10-. Belay at the orange
wall. There's a big horn 10ft below the orange rock.
P2 (5.10, 180ft) - Step out right and into crack (fairly heady move) @ 5.10b/c. Continue up widening crack to a short off-width. A #3 cam fits in the back half way up, but the last ten feet it is useful to have a #5 if you are not comfortable with offwidth. Continue up to left facing hand crack, 5.10. Belay at the end here on horn, semi-hanging belay or with a 70 continue straight up for another ~25m on face holds and cracks to a blocky belay.
P3 (5.10-, 115ft) Straight up cracks on the prow. Veer left at an angling ramp to a great belay ledge.
P4 (5.8+, 130ft) - Starts with a hidden traverse on jugs, then move straight right for 25'. Pull right under a hanging arête into splitter hands and fists not visible from below. Don't be tempted to go up the first cracks you see, if you keep going right you'll get to the great hand crack.
P5 (5.10-, 115ft) - Starts with easy cracks, and aim for the awesome steep headwall with a left arching splitter finger crack and wild knobs. When the finger cracks peters out you move up and right on knob jugs to the tower's prow. Belay here where it joins with the last pitch of Acid Baby.
P6 (5.9, 130ft) - This is also the last pitch of Acid Baby. A wild ridge traverse with great exposure leads you to the top of a gully. Stick to the top for maximum fun.
Descent: Go up and around one more rock buttress and up and over a small col. Go down the chossy gully. There's a little 5.0 non-exposed downclimbing, and traverse on some ledges aiming for a small lake. Continue traversing to join the Aasgard Pass trail.
Alternatively continue up further to a larger chossy gully and down to the small lake and on to the trail.