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Routes in East Walls

Dark Side Direct T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Guide's Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hell T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Sam Powell
Page Views: 357 total, 10/month
Shared By: Dallas Branum on Dec 1, 2014
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Private property, so keep a low profile. Details
Private property, so keep a low profile. Details

Description

Work your way up several large boulders until you hit the off-width roof, then the fun begins! Stem and thrutch your way through the roof and over the lip to the base of the upper slab. Regain your senses, clip the single bolt, and continue up the rippled face to the anchors.

Location

This is the off-width roof on the south facing end of the East Walls. It can easily be seen from the Brimstone Trail when the leaves are off the trees in the winter. You can rap from the bolted anchor up top.

Protection

Standard rack works, but at least one larger piece (BD# 4,) will make you feel more comfortable in the thrutchy roof. Bring a quickdraw for the single bolt on the slab up top. There is little opportunity for good pro on the upper slab, and a black tricam came in handy when nothing else seemed to fit.

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Andrew J 133
Richmond, VA
Andrew J 133   Richmond, VA
Unique and fun route that puts you at an awesome vantage point on the hillside. Definitely not PG-13. After the bolt you can bear right to the arete and find good gear (yellow C3) and a number 1 or 2 higher up. If you stay directly on the face I could see PG-13 but that doesn't make much sense to me. Bottom line - don't let the safety rating scare you off - can be protected well! Oct 3, 2016