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Early Access
Routes in West Crag
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Barn Door Ballet T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Beauty and the Beast T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bi-level Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Burly Girly T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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End of Autumn T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Fancy Free T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Footloose S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Grace and Power T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Pinch Me T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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School Bus Trundle T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Twixt the Trees T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
| GPS: | 40.43456, -105.38939 |
| FA: | K Duncan, D Humphrey, 2014 |
| Page Views: | 1,077 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Ken Duncan on Nov 8, 2014 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023
Details
Update: per Bruce Hildenbrand: the area has been open since 2023.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
A good route with some hard pulls at the bottom followed by a nice slab. The second roof has a tough mantle then chickenheads to the top. A little loose rock at the start but bullet-proof after that.
P1. 5.11a. Clip the first bolt with a long sling, then power through the height dependent crux overhang. Continue up the slab to the second overhang, clip another bolt, grab a jug and mantle onto the slab above. Chickenheads lead to the chains.
Variarions:
1) 5.5. After the crux overhang, follow the crack in the right-facing dihedral then step left onto the lip of the overhang and up to the anchors.
2) 5.8. After the crux overhang, the nice slab right of the dihedral has been toproped.
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