Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: I.Altman, K. Alinger, J. Kelly in two separate attempts in 1996. FFA - I. Altman , J. Hooten on what became "Judgment Day" - 9/12/2001
Page Views: 892 total · 18/month
Shared By: Ian Altman on Oct 21, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Located directly access the river from the "10 Mile Crag", this skinny, rectangular block and tower is separated from the main wall by 30 feet or so. The line of weakness that divides this tower is one of the most uniquely classic desert climbs I've ever done! Beginning with some wild and difficult stemming (5.11b), the line then quickly enters a locker finger crack surrounded by good foot holds (5.10). After an anchor is reached at 90' feet, another short pitch brings you to this skinny summit (5.10). A two bolt anchor will get you to the ground in a 35m+ rap. See the topo for more detail.

On the first attempt, we climbed the stem-box with several points of aid (KBs, LAs, and small wires) and then free climbed the awesome splitter to the mid-point anchor. Later that year we freed the bottom using clean pro and the fixed pitons for protection, making it to the top. In 2001 (the day after 9/11), we returned, cleaned the pins, placed 3 bolts on lead and made this thing the classic that is still standing today.

Another memorable event that seems like ancient history when you look at the river today - the first accent party crossed the river in a sketchy canoe at high water...almost dumping it on the way back! The Dolores River never seems to get released now… leaving way for many FAs on the other side. So, get after it, people!

Protection

Gear in "Friend" sizing:
1/3" & 3/8" - 1 each
1/2" - 2
3/4" (yellow Aliens or 0.4 Cams) - 3 or 4
1" - 2
1.5" - 2
2.5" & 3" - 1 each
small to medium wires
3 bolts.

There is a 2 bolt anchor at 90' and a 2 bolt anchor on top.

Photos

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