| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m) |
| GPS: | 37.84581, -108.80277 |
| FA: | I.Altman, K. Alinger, J. Kelly in two separate attempts in 1996. FFA - I. Altman , J. Hooten on what became "Judgment Day" - 9/12/2001 |
| Page Views: | 2,498 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Ian Altman on Oct 21, 2014 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
Located directly access the river from the "10 Mile Crag", this skinny, rectangular block and tower is separated from the main wall by about 5-10 feet. The line of weakness that divides it makes for a uniquely classic desert route that involves a challenging stem-box and splitter finger crack. Beginning with some wild and difficult stemming (5.11b), the line then quickly enters a dead vertca.l locker finger crack surrounded by good feet. (5.10). After an anchor is reached at 90' feet, another short pitch brings you to the skinny summit (5.10). A two bolt anchor will get you to the ground in a 35m+ rap. The entire route can be done in a single 35-meter pitch if desired. See the topo for more detail.
On the first attempt, we climbed the stem-box with several points of aid (KBs, LAs, and small wires) and then free climbed the awesome splitter to the mid-point anchor. Later that year we freed the bottom using clean pro and the fixed pitons for protection, and made it to the top with one additional pitch. In 2001 (the day after 9/11), we returned, cleaned the pins, placed 3 bolts on lead, and made this thing the classic that is still standing today.
Another memorable event that seems like ancient history when you look at the Dolores today - the first accent party crossed the river in a canoe at high water and almost almost dumped it on the way back! The Dolores River never seems to get released now leaving way for many FAs on the other side. So, get after it people!



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