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Routes in Dolores Canyon

A Walking Enigma T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Adventure with Puck T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Air Time S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Arm and Hammer S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bat Master S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bearded Lunch Lady T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Caroline's Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Caroline's OW T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cinco de Mayo en Domingo T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crescent Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dazed and Confused T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Deliverance T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Duncan's Delight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ear, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Easy-Wider T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Groove Tube, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
High Time T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jive Turkey T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Joint Effort T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lunch Box Special T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Make John Do It T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
McComb Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Menstruation Station T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Pump House Crack 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C1-
Pump House Direct T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Rattlesnake Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A1+
Redemption Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rizla's Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A0
Rope Master's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Seemter, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spooky Tooth T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sunday Stroll T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Superette T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Swim Simulator T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Texas Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown Crack aka People are Watching T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Whiskey River T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wind Tower, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: I.Altman, K. Alinger, J. Kelly in two separate attempts in 1996. FFA - I. Altman , J. Hooten on what became "Judgment Day" - 9/12/2001
Page Views: 744 total · 18/month
Shared By: Ian Altman on Oct 21, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Located directly access the river from the "10 Mile Crag", this skinny, rectangular block and tower is separated from the main wall by 30 feet or so. The line of weakness that divides this tower is one of the most uniquely classic desert climbs I've ever done! Beginning with some wild and difficult stemming (5.11b), the line then quickly enters a locker finger crack surrounded by good foot holds (5.10). After an anchor is reached at 90' feet, another short pitch brings you to this skinny summit (5.10). A two bolt anchor will get you to the ground in a 35m+ rap. See the topo for more detail.

On the first attempt, we climbed the stem-box with several points of aid (KBs, LAs, and small wires) and then free climbed the awesome splitter to the mid-point anchor. Later that year we freed the bottom using clean pro and the fixed pitons for protection, making it to the top. In 2001 (the day after 9/11), we returned, cleaned the pins, placed 3 bolts on lead and made this thing the classic that is still standing today.

Another memorable event that seems like ancient history when you look at the river today - the first accent party crossed the river in a sketchy canoe at high water...almost dumping it on the way back! The Dolores River never seems to get released now… leaving way for many FAs on the other side. So, get after it, people!

Protection

Gear in "Friend" sizing:
1/3" & 3/8" - 1 each
1/2" - 2
3/4" (yellow Aliens or 0.4 Cams) - 3 or 4
1" - 2
1.5" - 2
2.5" & 3" - 1 each
small to medium wires
3 bolts.

There is a 2 bolt anchor at 90' and a 2 bolt anchor on top.

Photos

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