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Countdown To Ecstasy
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 1.3 from 3
votes
Routes in The Murray Wall
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Afterburner S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Amandatory Bolt Testing S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Countdown To Ecstasy S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Crystal Ladder S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Forever in Bluejeans S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Hideaway S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Hobo Bolter S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Kiddie Treats T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
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Kundalini Express S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Mandatory Doug Testing S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Murray Freestone S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Oreos & Promises S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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School Of Hard Rocks S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Scratching Post S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tiger Paw S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tiger Teeth S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Treeline S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Widowmaker S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
| Type: | Sport, 45 ft (14 m) |
| GPS: | 32.4337, -110.7977 |
| FA: | Mike Argueso |
| Page Views: | 1,027 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Hendrixson on Sep 28, 2014 |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Access Issue: Potentially unavailable to climbing February through July if raptors are breeding here.
Details
If you aren't sure if raptors are breeding here, then listen and watch for defensive behavior such as screeching or diving (links to info). If raptors are breeding in this area please climb somewhere else and let other climbers know.
Pressures on wildlife can be immense and are multiplied by effects of climate change and pollutants. Choosing to climb away from nest sites reduces unnecessary stresses to the birds. Give these animals a chance to thrive.
More info here: theclimbershome.org/breedin…
Description
Holding nothing back, Countdown To Ecstasy starts with powerful edging and crimping. This sequence demands technique and forces interesting movement. A sinker pocket and deep undercling provide a respite at the third bolt. Surmount two bulges separated by seemingly blank face. Finish by following a near horizontal crack to the anchor.
Countdown To Ecstasy has long been a personal mystery. The route ascends interesting features but sees little traffic in comparison to its neighbors. A rumor swirled that the line was plagued by poor rock. My intrigue and completest tendencies finally got the better of me.
The rock quality is good but not great. The bottom shows signs of features lost, the upper headwall is a bit grainy, and the final horizontal crack has an easily avoidable hold that flexes. Clipping the second bolt, while likely safe, held my attention as the easiest clipping stance comes after the sequence in near groundfall territory. With those caveats the movement and features on this line make it worth exploring.
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