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Routes in The Murray Wall

Afterburner S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Amandatory Bolt Testing S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Countdown To Ecstasy S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Crystal Ladder S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Forever in Bluejeans S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hobo Bolter S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Kiddie Treats T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Kundalini Express S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mandatory Doug Testing S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Murray Freestone S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Oreos & Promises S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
School Of Hard Rocks S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scratching Post S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tiger Paw S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tiger Teeth S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Treeline S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Widowmaker S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Mike Argueso
Page Views: 245 total, 6/month
Shared By: Hendrixson on Sep 28, 2014
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Closed to climbing March 15 - June 30 Details

Description

Holding nothing back, Countdown To Ecstasy starts with powerful edging and crimping. This sequence demands technique and forces interesting movement. A sinker pocket and deep undercling provide a respite at the third bolt. Surmount two bulges separated by seemingly blank face. Finish by following a near horizontal crack to the anchor.

Countdown To Ecstasy has long been a personal mystery. The route ascends interesting features but sees little traffic in comparison to its neighbors. A rumor swirled that the line was plagued by poor rock. My intrigue and completest tendencies finally got the better of me.

The rock quality is good but not great. The bottom shows signs of features lost, the upper headwall is a bit grainy, and the final horizontal crack has an easily avoidable hold that flexes. Clipping the second bolt, while likely safe, held my attention as the easiest clipping stance comes after the sequence in near groundfall territory. With those caveats the movement and features on this line make it worth exploring.

Location

Countdown To Ecstasy is the rightmost line on the front face of The Murray Wall. Said another way it is the furthest west route on the northwest face. Two routes start downhill, past a tree, from the others: Cracked Rhythm on the left; and Countdown to Ecstasy on the right.

Protection

6 bolts to 2 bolts, which are not anchor bolts. Since lowering directly through these bolts may damage the rope, leaver biners were added September 2014. While I have not personally confirmed, it may be possible to walk off as well.

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