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Routes in Broken Tiers/Transformer Wall

Bermuda Highway T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: First Lead: Kyle Queener
Page Views: 103 total, 3/month
Shared By: Kyle Queener on Sep 26, 2014
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This climb starts on discontinuous cracks using side pulls. At half height a horizontal rail is found. After mantling this continue up the left slanting flared crack until finishing up on some bouldery, but juggy climbing.

Location

This route is located on the far side (away from the dam) of the Upper Tier. Access this from above by approaching from above the spill way. Hike up and over this dome skirting the spill way until you start heading down hill. Navigate the ledges always trying to go farther away from the dam. Eventually you will dead end. Go down a little bit or 3rd class into some bushes where you will turn and hike towards the dam. This bushwhacky trail will lead you to the massive ledge where the base of the climb is. Alternately you can find some bolted anchors which will allow you to rappel into the base of the tier.

Protection

Three bolts down low for the start. The third bolt may be too high for some. If anyone repeats this and finds that to be the case, let me know. Once you gain the horizontal you can place a green C3. The rest of the climb in protected by Green to Yellow alien sized pieces. You can either build an anchor towards the top of the climb (hand sized pieces) or continue up the slab 30 feet and build an anchor in a nice splitter crack.

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