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Routes in City of Gold

Grandma Fingers S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gravity Pope S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lakota Gangster Messiah S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Moms in Mythos S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sacred Clown - Heyoka Roof S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sleestak S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tears and Bubblegum (AKA Rainbow Guru) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Third Intafada S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Nick Martino - 2010
Page Views: 638 total · 16/month
Shared By: Luke Bertelsen on Sep 19, 2014
Admins: Mike Snyder

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Description

This is the reason you came all the way up here, and it doesn't get much prettier. The techy lieback start will get your attention right off the bat as you smear your feet and slap your way up the overhanging blue and beige wall. The climbing gets powerful as you figure out how to change from leaning left to right at the crux. Amazing pinching on tufa-like holds follow the crux. Keep it together for some more crimping and use of crack/ runnel feature climbing and you will have climbed one of the most unique 5.13s at Tensleep. It is a shame there aren't more like this.

Location

The main trail dumps you at the middle of the main wall where there are more boulders and remnants of a fire pit. Look up and right to find this climb. You cannot miss it.

Protection

7 bolts to anchors

Photos

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