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Routes in Ellingwood Point

Wrong Peak T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 1200 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: David Stillman and Don Morris (2013)
Page Views: 587 total · 12/month
Shared By: Don Morris on Sep 8, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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This route was done by accident. We were so enamored with the face above us, our minds playing mind games, agreed this was Blanca's Northeast Face. We thought Ormes Buttress would be too easy, and "Hey!, let's try to go straight up". We did not realize we were on the wrong mountain, until we got weary of the climb, cut left, turned the corner on the ridge, and with gaping mouths looked South exclaiming, "This isn't Blanca, it's over there!"

If you want to try this "chossy" climb with some stout 5.9 and "hairy" protection placements, start just left of center of the face on a black, right-arcing roof that will open to vertical climbing. Continue straight up to a slight ledge with moderate protection. Do the same for pitch 2. From pitch 3, climb up to the angled gash that rises to the south. For pitch 4, climb in the gash upward and South a full pitch until you find a suitable belay stance. On pitch 5, climb straight up. Close to the end of the pitch, a roof (crux) will need to be mantled. Decide your destiny. Belay below if you can find suitable protection, or mount and pray that your rope will get to a nice grassy ledge to the left. If you do not reach the ledge, you will end up placing suspect protection, and telling your partner not to fall. Trust our experience on this. Rest on the grassy ledge, enjoy the view, and thank God you did not die. Pitch 6 continue climbing up, and when you see the slot to the left exit.


The descent is from the top of Ellingwood Point via the North Ridge (5.0). At the lowest point of the ridge (saddle), look for your rappel on its East side.


Prayer and a full quiver.


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