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Routes in Arrowhead Wall

Broken Arrow T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Garvey Who S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gypsy Ninja S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Less Gypsy, More Ninja S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Less is More S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Thief Among Us S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: Evan Phillips, Skinny Boynton, Andy Hoyt, Dan Kryger (2000)
Page Views: 168 total, 4/month
Shared By: L. Von Dommelheimer on Aug 14, 2014
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

This is an fun crack climb to the right of Thief. The gear is goofy and placing it might be the crux of the route. It climbs the crack through locks, side pulls and a few good jams. The climb breaks left near the top into a nice open book. Either clip the piton here, or skip it and reach around the corner right to the bolt, and then pull the last couple moves to the chains.

Location

This route is located on the second tier. It is directly to the right of thief.

Protection

gear to 2 inches, 2 bolts and one piton, Two bolt anchor.

Photos

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L. Von Dommelheimer
Anchorage
 
L. Von Dommelheimer   Anchorage  
 
Nice assumption :) I remember you being there now. May 25, 2016
I don't put a lot of credence in the opinion of someone who downgrades 5.12s that can't get up a 5.10. And I've got much better things to do with my time than flail at an overcrowded grid bolted crag with a bunch of townies. Like exploring the next crag that will be retrobolted, glued, squeezejobbed, and downgraded by a bunch of narcissistic beaters when the word gets out about it it ten years. From the comfort of my wheelchair, with a bong duct taped to my hands, of course.... May 24, 2016
L. Von Dommelheimer
Anchorage
 
L. Von Dommelheimer   Anchorage  
 
Don't you have something better to do Andy? I've stopped putting credence in anything you say, and I imagine it must suck to watch a new generation of climbers who are more motivated to climb than get stoned. You weren't there when I fell on that 5.10, therefore you really don't have a thing to offer other than your normal, sour, commentary, since you don't know what the circumstances were. May 24, 2016
Shouldn't you be able to climb the 5.10s in Eagle River without whipping and sticking gear before you start downgrading the 5.12s in Chickaloon? Millenials.... May 24, 2016
JJ Tower  
 
Welded nut below crux courtesy of rare Alaskan Mountain Gnome Dommelheimer May 23, 2016
evanphillipsak
  5.10b
evanphillipsak  
  5.10b
FA: Phillips, Boynton, Kryger, Hoyt (July 2000) Oct 7, 2015
FA by Evan Phillips and Jared ? From 'Merica Jun 30, 2015