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Routes in Arrowhead Wall

Broken Arrow T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Garvey Who S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gypsy Ninja S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Less Gypsy, More Ninja S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Less is More S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Thief Among Us S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Eddie Phay
Page Views: 689 total · 15/month
Shared By: Jared LaVacque on May 20, 2014
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

Start on Thief Among Us and then move left at the 5th bolt, for 2 bolts, and clip the anchors of Less is More. The crux is on a thin right hand 45 crimp with out-stretched feet, between the 5th and 7th bolt. Great pockets and crimps from bottom to top.

Location

Once you are at "Stone Master" walk left and a trail will bring you to the arrow head wall, following steep scree and vegetation, to an exposed area, above the Main Wall.

Starts and shares the same first five bolts as Thief Among Us, then diverges to the left, for 2 bolts, to the huge chain anchor on Less is More.

Protection

Draws and Rope

Photos

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Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
 
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
 
Probably better this way and non-contrived, though epoxied, than atrocious semi-grid bolted routes that are mostly epoxy and diverge and converge like Wookie. It is what it is and for it being Chugach crud, it's pretty good and it's what we have. Now, if there were only more of the Arrowhead Wall...face climbing is in the lacking department here. May 26, 2014
Oh cool, just what every classic route needs.... A 2 bolt epoxied variation. May 25, 2014
Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
 
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
 
Corrected the bolt count. I couldn't remember when looking over from Thief, if it was 2 or 3. A little epoxy is better than a whole wall full of it and held together with it and the most atrocious bolt grid I have ever seen...ahem...Weiner. May 21, 2014
sasquatch
  5.13a
sasquatch  
  5.13a
The variation only has 2 bolts, not three.

The epoxy on a couple of the upper holds detracts from the overall aesthetics, but the movement is quite good. Thin and delicate vertical face climbing, which is rare for Alaska. May 21, 2014

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