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Routes in Arrowhead Wall

Broken Arrow T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Garvey Who S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gypsy Ninja S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Less Gypsy, More Ninja S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Less is More S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Thief Among Us S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Dan Kryger
Page Views: 2,225 total, 42/month
Shared By: Griswald on Aug 5, 2013
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

Use pockets and crimps to climb past 7 bolts. One of the best 5.12 rock climbs in the area.

Location

Once you are at "Stone Master" walk left and a trail will bring you to the arrow head wall, following steep scree and vegetation, to an exposed area, above the Main Wall.

Protection

Bolts

Photos

Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
  5.12d
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
  5.12d
Anyway...pending comments are on their way. Thief is definitely .12d~ at this point. There are more missing holds and some sequences have changed over the years.The sequence is made less direct in one particular section (to not spoil beta), though avoidable, by making much thinner direct moves, instead of traversing to a jug off right and then back into the route. a hold is epoxied back on, some holds are backed up preemptively. On the move to the mono, the supporting feet that once allowed a person with significant reach to only "hold on" to the mono versus yard on the mono, are far gone, with the last gone this weekend. Thief is still really fun, but it is not at all .12c. It is in a similar state from Todd's comment about it being .12d in 2014. Sep 6, 2016
rock junkie
CO/WY
  5.12c
rock junkie   CO/WY
  5.12c
Not a bad line. The mono was the highlight of the route. Sasha's new project! May 30, 2015
climberbum2 Kryger
wanship, Utah
 
climberbum2 Kryger   wanship, Utah
 
That guy is a bum! He is all washed up. Living in a cave some where. Oct 13, 2014
The Shocker
  5.12c
The Shocker  
  5.12c
The full circle of the evolution of a sport route is complete. 2 bolt variations, broken holds, glue, and grade debates. Was fun in 2001. Bummer for everyone late to the party. What ever happened to the guy we named the route after anyway...? Aug 7, 2014
L. Von Dommelheimer
Anchorage
  5.12c
L. Von Dommelheimer   Anchorage  
  5.12c
I was sad to see how visible the glue is. At least it wasn't the orange Hilti stuff...but still. Aug 7, 2014
Griswald  
 
Someone glued the hold back on. It probably climbs better with the hold back on, but where do you draw the line between cleaning and chipping/glueing. Aug 7, 2014
Left crimp broke the other day three holds after the long rail (by the 4th bolt I think). Completely gone so the best beta we could find was heading out right on a series of crimps to the juggy horn, then traversing back left using the flake. Adds a few more moves but with a good rest. Pumpy Jul 13, 2014
sasquatch
  5.12c
sasquatch  
  5.12c
Two more breaks last Friday, one hand and one foot, both small as well, but in aggregate with the rest of the breaks probably bump this into the 12d range. It is getting cleaner and cleaner though. Jun 30, 2014
Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
  5.12d
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
  5.12d
Kevin and I managed to break a few of those small feet as well. I agree, just natural progression with traffic. May 22, 2014
sasquatch
  5.12c
sasquatch  
  5.12c
So far this season(2014) I've seen three obvious hand holds broken on thief.

The first break was a crimp just below and to the left of the 5th bolt and only impacts the grade of the route if you're really short, and probably not much even then. There's still a crimp there, just a bit lower and angled slightly different.

The second was a crimp below the good two finger pocket you clip the 5th bolt from and doesn't change Thief at all. It did change my sequence on Gypsy, but didn't make it any harder, just a sequence tweak. There is nothing left here.

The third broke yesterday and was the point at the top of the good sidepull that you would use to clip the 6th bolt. This makes the upper crux a bit harder, but again only a tiny amount. The hold is a bit different, but only minorly.

Quite a few small feet have broken as well, but nothing critical. I anticipate a good right hand sidepull crimp between the 4th and 5th bolt will break as well as it sounds pretty hollow. So far I'd say all of the breakage is natural route clean up through traffic, and I'd guess with just a little bit more traffic the route will be immaculate.

So far, none of the breaks would impact the grade. May 22, 2014
Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
  5.12d
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
  5.12d
Broken hold up high and the grade is definitely .12d, doesn't change the quality, just a little harder. May 17, 2014