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Routes in Goofy Spire

East Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Goofy T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
North Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
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Type: Trad, TR, 90 ft
FA: Ament? McCarty? Haas?
Page Views: 161 total · 3/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jun 28, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

This is a little route with a bit of variety that is on the shady wall to the right of the Goofy Spire. It may have been climbed previously. If so, I can update the name & first ascent information.

Start up the obvious, right-facing dihedral/chimney. At times, you can move right onto the face. There are loose blocks in the chimney that seemed too risky to launch given the biking/walking trail and road below. Above the top of the chimney, you can place a yellow Alien and downclimb a bit to walk across the big, hollow flake. Angle slightly right. Finish up the obvious right-facing dihedral to the crag's top. You can belay off a large tree.

Location

This ascends the obvious, right-facing dihedral chimney just right of the middle of the crag.

Protection

A rack to a #3.5 Camalot works. Double #1 Camalots are handy. The pro is a bit iffy at points. You can belay below the route's start by 40 feet at a #11 hex crack.

Photos

I free soloed this line in 2005, but I'm sure it had been done decades before that. Aug 9, 2015
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
Jason, did you name it? We can adjust the name to the earliest known ascent. Aug 10, 2015

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