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Routes in Veiny

Babob S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Balls and Bruans T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Beetle kill T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Beyond Beauty S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Break Away V1+ 5
Broken Beliefs S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Buddha Boys S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Burley Buttress S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cluster Bomb V1 5 PG13
Dirty Little Secrets S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Elephant with Yellow Bandanas S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Existential Angst S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hail Betty S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lichen Divorce T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
One Time This, Next Time That V3 6A
Slap Happy S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slap Happy S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tenuous S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 5.7 S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown TR TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 30 ft, Grade V
FA: Mike Nona 2002
Page Views: 387 total · 7/month
Shared By: Mark Orsag on Jun 24, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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This is a short but thought-provoking and very technical slab climb. A few easier moves to start and then a steady diet of 5.9 and 5.10 moves. Very thin hands on this one; good smearing and edging are essential to success. The route seemed to get a touch harder the higher one got, but there was no clear crux. Well-protected on lead. My two star rating is based on my appreciation for this type of climbing. If you aren't into sustained short but uber-techy slabs, your rating might mirror the no stars it gets in the new Busse and Burr guide.


On the NW side of Veiny. This route is near the top end of the little gully. The Beetle Kill/Dirty Little Secrets combo is to the immediate right with Babob one more route to the right going down the gully.


3 Bolts


I'd disagree with the description and say there was one pretty clear crux move for the grade. Rest was solid Mount Rushmore 5.8 climbing. Fun, Quick climb w/ a possible walk-off. Nov 2, 2017

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