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Routes in Veiny

BB (Buddha Boys) S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Babob S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Balls and Bruans T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Beetle kill T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Beyond Beauty S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Break Away V1+ 5
Broken Beliefs S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Buddha Boys S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Burley Buttress S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cluster Bomb V1 5 PG13
Dirty Little Secrets S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Elephant with Yellow Bandanas S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Existential Angst S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hail Betty S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lichen Divorce T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
One Time This, Next Time That V3 6A
Slap Happy S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slap Happy S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tenuous S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 5.7 S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown TR TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 30 ft, Grade V
FA: Mike Nona 2002
Page Views: 365 total · 8/month
Shared By: Mark Orsag on Jun 24, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description [Edit]

This is a short but thought-provoking and very technical slab climb. A few easier moves to start and then a steady diet of 5.9 and 5.10 moves. Very thin hands on this one; good smearing and edging are essential to success. The route seemed to get a touch harder the higher one got, but there was no clear crux. Well-protected on lead. My two star rating is based on my appreciation for this type of climbing. If you aren't into sustained short but uber-techy slabs, your rating might mirror the no stars it gets in the new Busse and Burr guide.

Location [Edit]

On the NW side of Veiny. This route is near the top end of the little gully. The Beetle Kill/Dirty Little Secrets combo is to the immediate right with Babob one more route to the right going down the gully.

Protection [Edit]

3 Bolts

Photos

SeanBoi  
I'd disagree with the description and say there was one pretty clear crux move for the grade. Rest was solid Mount Rushmore 5.8 climbing. Fun, Quick climb w/ a possible walk-off. Nov 2, 2017

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