Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Road Damage

Bathtub V9 7C
Blue Lambo V7 7A+
Tugboat Complex V7 7A+
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: Rocco Bocchicchio
Page Views: 352 total · 6/month
Shared By: Brett Bloxom on Mar 26, 2014 with updates from Rocco
Admins: Aeon Aki, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


9 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

A great boulder problem just right of Blue Lambo. Start sitting on the long crimp next to the arete. Reach right to a small intermediate crimp, then right again to a slightly better crimp. Slap up to the sloper and continue up and slightly left with big moves between good holds to a sloping topout.

The landing is pretty bad as of this writing, so a good spotter is key. If you fall from midway up or higher you could miss the first tier of the landing zone and fall down further into some talus taking your spotter with you. But dont let that scare you off of this super fun boulder problem. Just put your spotter in the right place.

Location

Just right of Blue Lambo on the pretty face.

Protection

several pads and an attentive spotter

Photos

- No Photos -
Brett Bloxom
Bishop, CA
  V7-8
Brett Bloxom   Bishop, CA
  V7-8
I have talked to several people who have done a sit start to this boulder problem and claim it is slightly harder. Around v10. Mar 26, 2014
Nat Smale
Salt Lake City, UT
  V7-8
Nat Smale   Salt Lake City, UT
  V7-8
The spotter should make sure to have a very secure stance (build up the landing if necessary). On one attempt, I came off at mid height, hit the the edge of the landing, pitched over backwards into the talus below, taking out my spotter with me. Mar 28, 2014
Rocco  
Hey folks. I found, cleaned, and climbed this one, and the problem description is slightly off. I started right hand on the long crimp start of Blue Lambo, and left hand using the arete portion of this hold (thumb on the crimp). Moved right to a small intermediate, right again to the better crimp on the face, and went left hand into the slot. I found some video of people starting where I did, but going to a hold slightly above the start with the left hand first, using the same intermediate and right hand crimp, then going right a third time to the sloper. I didn't use that higher left hand above the start, so maybe something broke and created that hold or I just neglected to see it. That's where the proposed original grade of V9 came from. Just so people know the correct sequence. Aug 12, 2018
Rocco  
Also a fun note, when I originally did the problem that lower tier was thick with nasty thorn bushes, so if you overshot the pads you weren't just falling past the spotter, you were also getting stuck in the brambles! Aug 12, 2018

More About Tugboat Complex

Printer-Friendly