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Routes in Right Side Cliff

240 Shorty S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Aerial Sewer S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Arlan's Route S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Hole S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Butter Chubs S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cardio T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cargoblasting S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Corner Pocket T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cultural Diversity S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Diamond Maker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Love T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Double Tap S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Elvis Pressure S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
FPM S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Faith S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Feed Me S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Gossamer (Ardian's Route?) S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Green Eggs and Ham S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Head in the Toilet S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Hollowman T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Injection Burn S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Last of a Long Line T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Leaky Faucet S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Loaded S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Lucifer's Revenge S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lucky 13 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
MP1 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
MP2 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mountaineer's Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Mr. Toad's Wild Ride S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
NC Sport Climbing S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Nameless S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Noob S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Not What I Expected T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Novacaine S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Old School T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Orange Crush T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Outstanding S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Prince Albert T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Reach Around T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Samson & Delilah S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Seatbelts T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sex Noises S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Steam Room Board Meeting S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Step Up S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Step Up Right S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Strutin S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
TP Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Teeth S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
That Thing You Do S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tilt-a-Whirl S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Todd's Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tombstone, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tradmaster S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Vulgar and Rude S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
smoke this T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
unnamed 1 S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 955 total, 21/month
Shared By: Ryan Cantor on Mar 12, 2014
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


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Don't trespass outside SCC boundaries Details

Description

This popular route stays mostly to the left of the water groove, with anchors up and to the right of the groove.

Location

To the right of Lucifer's Revenge

Protection

Bolts, Anchors at top

Photos

Kirk Brode
  5.7 PG13
Kirk Brode  
  5.7 PG13
It is uncommon in the Southeast for routes of this grade (5.7/5.7+) to be this good. It is somewhat unique in this aspect.

This route has multiple large, bomber, plate-like features that can be slung with 48-inch slings. This negates the need for the 5th bolt that was added to the route. The other bolts, except perhaps the third one, can safely be skipped if you use a modest rack. Safely skipping the third bolt requires more skill with placing gear than should be expected from a 5.8 leader in my opinion.

Bring a couple of 48-inch slings as part of your standard Yellow Bluff rack for protecting the numerous horns and plate features. Before you leave home, practice tying clove hitches with one hand (like on a door knob or something) so it's second nature when trying to sling the features on lead. It's something that every climber should know anyway.

A bolt isn't needed where you can sling one (sometimes more) of these bomber horns and plate-like features. Jun 21, 2015