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Routes in Paredon de Los Condores

Lo dejamos ahi S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,144 total, 25/month
Shared By: russellHOBART on Mar 2, 2014 with updates
Admins: Tony Yeary, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

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Description

Description:
5 pitches to the top(possible walk off?).
Can be confusing many alternate bolted routes, many chopped bolts.
Fun route, great views, decent belay stances.
The first three pitches offers some easier climbing (5.7) and then things heat up for the last pitch. There are at least two variations to the last pitch.

Location

After crossing the bridge up and right there is a large talus field. The wall is mostly a clean feature with a right-facing dihedral high on the wall

Protection

Protection:
Should have >=65m rope to rappel down safely. With 60m almost impossible to get to a couple rappel stations, and had to down climb the first pitch to ground (~2-3m).

Bolts all the way up, but bring some trad gear to make some of the pitches less run out (small gear BD x4 .1-.75 and BD nuts 5-8).

Photos

Nick Wallace
New York
Nick Wallace   New York
Great climb, although it's possibly misnamed here. I believe this is the route known locally as La Tradicional, no one in Chalten had heard of Lo Dejamos Ahi when we asked around.

All of the pitches except the final one are somewhat runout (max 5-6 bolts for 30m+), and the second pitch only has 2 bolts. Second pitch is super easy climbing though, 5.6-5.7 max. We started on an alt line going left for the final pitch that was solid 5.10+ / 5.11- slab and eventually traversed right to the bolted crack, which was a soaking wet jug haul, 5.7ish.

You can absolutely walk off any of the climbs on this wall, there's a path that runs back down to the right after you top out. There are two newish looking bolts over the top set back about 10 ft you can use to protect the 6ft of climbing to top out after the last rap station.

We used a 60m rope and walked off, I would've wanted a 70 to rap cleanly although you could probably make a 60 work if you had to. Mar 17, 2017
Matt Swartz
Los Angeles, CA
Matt Swartz   Los Angeles, CA
Great route - We followed the line pictured in the beta photo and there is no way I would consider this route 5.10- That said, there are a few places where you can follow alternative bolt lines and some of those maybe be more challenging but if you stick to the route in the beta photo I would say that none of the pitches were any harder then 5.7 maybe a 5.8 move but definitely not 5.10-. A really fun route with some nice exposure towards the top - do it! Jan 16, 2016