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Routes in Caliche (Ciales, PR)

Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blanca Nieves S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bola de Fuego S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
CJ S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Duo de Choc S,TR 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
El Gringo Loco S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
El Pelotero Malo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Estrella de Flores S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Existencia Dinamica S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
La China Dulce "The Sweet Orange" S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
La Escalera S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
La Esquina Famosa S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
La Grieta S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
La Otra Esquina S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
My Right Foot S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
NJ S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ne Pleurs Pas “Do Not Cry” S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Pas de Bras, Pas de Nutela S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Pompi Pompi S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Que Siga La Rumba S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Resistance S,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Revolucion S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Serpiente S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Trago Amargo en la Roca S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Triboro Bridge S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Triboro Direct S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Uno, Dos, Tres S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: R. Boscarino
Page Views: 434 total, 9/month
Shared By: Steven Lucarelli on Feb 17, 2014
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Description

This is a fun route with a distinct crux at the second bolt followed by some awkward balance moves out right. The difficulty eases up for the final two bolts to the anchor. You can also link this into the top half of "Pas de Bras, Pas de Nutella" for a longer pitch.

Location

Towards the right end of the crag just past the 13a "Pas de Bras, Pas de Nutella".

Protection

6 bolts to a two bolt anchor. The bolts are pretty rusty but we were taking falls on them so they seem fine.

Photos

Eli Helmuth
Ciales, PR
  5.12a/b
Eli Helmuth   Ciales, PR
  5.12a/b
The very rusty steel bolts were replaced 3/14/17 with titanium up to the first anchor and the upper half extension via Pas de Nutella replaced with titanium as well. All of the anchors in this zone will be replaced with titanium very soon and many of the original bolts snapped at the head when being loosened to remove due to corrosion. Mar 17, 2017
nate post
Silverthorne
 
nate post   Silverthorne
 
This route has been extended. Now you can climb another half dozen bolts past the original anchors making this a 100 foot climb. Its well worth doing and the extension is significantly easier than 5.12. The first few bolts could stand to be replaced but they are still hanging in there. I loved this climb the first go worked me over real good but I figured it out and got my balancing act together for the redpoint on the second go. Nov 21, 2015