Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: R. Boscarino
Page Views: 531 total · 9/month
Shared By: Steven Lucarelli on Feb 17, 2014
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7 Opinions

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Description

This is a fun route with a distinct crux at the second bolt followed by some awkward balance moves out right. The difficulty eases up for the final two bolts to the anchor. You can also link this into the top half of "Pas de Bras, Pas de Nutella" for a longer pitch.

Location

Towards the right end of the crag just past the 13a "Pas de Bras, Pas de Nutella".

Protection

6 bolts to a two bolt anchor. The bolts are pretty rusty but we were taking falls on them so they seem fine.

Photos

nate post
Silverthorne
 
nate post   Silverthorne
 
This route has been extended. Now you can climb another half dozen bolts past the original anchors making this a 100 foot climb. Its well worth doing and the extension is significantly easier than 5.12. The first few bolts could stand to be replaced but they are still hanging in there. I loved this climb the first go worked me over real good but I figured it out and got my balancing act together for the redpoint on the second go. Nov 21, 2015
Eli Helmuth
Ciales, PR
  5.12a/b
Eli Helmuth   Ciales, PR
  5.12a/b
The very rusty steel bolts were replaced 3/14/17 with titanium up to the first anchor and the upper half extension via Pas de Nutella replaced with titanium as well. All of the anchors in this zone will be replaced with titanium very soon and many of the original bolts snapped at the head when being loosened to remove due to corrosion. Mar 17, 2017