Type: Trad, Snow, Alpine, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Preston Rhea - 4.10.12
Page Views: 3,565 total · 38/month
Shared By: Preston Rhea on Dec 25, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

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Description

The route name accurately describes the route in full: climb the central gully on the east face of Crystal Crag. Beyond the boring name and description, it is a fine winter route on a fun and easily accessible peak. The first known ascent was done in winter conditions so the route description will reflect that.

The route starts immediately with a short step of steep though blocky and moderate rock climbing (5.7). The step gives way to lower angle slabs with more of a "mixed" quality. Above the slabs the upper snowfield can be readily seen. Take a more or less straight line to the summit avoiding rock bands where needed to the south (climber's left).

Location

The route starts in the gully immediately south (looker's left) of the Schoolboy Buttress. On the right side of the gully is the sport climb Bagpipe, an 8 bolt, 11a that follows a prominent blunt arete left of an overhanging face.

To descend, use the West Face or South Arete routes on Crystal Crag, both in the summer are rated 3rd class.

Protection

A standard alpine rock rack should suffice. Pickets or stakes for snow protection may or may not be usable on the upper snowfield.

Photos