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Routes in The Lost Wall

Phoenix T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Terror Vision T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Steve Garvey Jay Rowe
Page Views: 1,084 total, 22/month
Shared By: Griswald on Nov 1, 2013
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

This route is so fun and should not be missed. The second pitch traverses under the big roof. The steep crack at the beginning of the 2nd pitch can be a bit cruxy, but the gear is good and the real crux is towards the end of the route.

Location

Climb the 5.6 ramp on the left side of the wall and belay. Start the 2nd pitch which might be one of the best pitches in Hatcher Pass.

Protection

Nuts, cams, fixed pins and bolts the guide book says that you can use large cams, but you do not need them.

Photos

Brian Prince
morro bay, ca
  5.12a
Brian Prince   morro bay, ca
  5.12a
this is a cool and unique route for sure. interesting to see chalk as well, but assume it never gets washed off..

getting to the the corner is pretty tough, mostly cause it's so frkn steep! corner is mostly cruiser until what amounts to a little boulder problem with a pin at your chest and a bolt a ft. below that. was tic'd pretty good but I couldn't figure out how to use them. pitch is practically fully bolted. still wild. and, as could be expected from the white rock, a lot of it is really kinda crappy on the surface anyway.

so... you need a single rack to #2 or 3 at the most. also, a single 70m might make it off and, if not, there are multiple midway anchors to use. and thanks for the nice hardware. Jul 9, 2016