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The Shield Direct
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British
Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 2,218 total · 21/month |
Shared By: | Andy Weinmann on Sep 30, 2013 · Updates |
Admins: | Aaron Parlier, Shawn Heath |
Description
Move up through easy ground to the inside corner with a smooth face to the right. Follow the corner up, passing an old pin at about mid-height. Make a few awkward moves to gain a stance below the roof and place some good gear.
Pull the roof (crux) using a thin rail, some finger-locks and a pinch on a block. Small feet but it's all there. Once you gain a stance above the roof, follow the corner directly above (don't go left...more rope drag) and finish up to the top.
Vincent Penoso: "I named this route because of the triangular rock at the crux that to me at the time looked like a shield. There were 2 ways to do this route. Once you got to the shield there was a place to place a cam straight up under the little roof with a double runner, but then there was a simple move to the left to a key hand hold that put me into the corner and I could move around that small corner and then continue up along the left side in a channel to the top.
The harder variation you have to place that cam with a double runner because of the rope drag otherwise, and you go straight up and over...I didn't lead this variation."
Pull the roof (crux) using a thin rail, some finger-locks and a pinch on a block. Small feet but it's all there. Once you gain a stance above the roof, follow the corner directly above (don't go left...more rope drag) and finish up to the top.
Vincent Penoso: "I named this route because of the triangular rock at the crux that to me at the time looked like a shield. There were 2 ways to do this route. Once you got to the shield there was a place to place a cam straight up under the little roof with a double runner, but then there was a simple move to the left to a key hand hold that put me into the corner and I could move around that small corner and then continue up along the left side in a channel to the top.
The harder variation you have to place that cam with a double runner because of the rope drag otherwise, and you go straight up and over...I didn't lead this variation."
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