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The Lion's Den
V8 YDS 7B Font
Avg: 3.9 from 44
votes
Routes in The Washout
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Birth of Simba, The V4 6B |
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Buried Alive V6 7A |
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Dirty Dancing V4 6B |
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Humoristic V1 5 |
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Lazarette V4 6B |
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Lion's Den, The V8 7B |
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Office Chair, The V1 5 |
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Slam Dunk V2 5+ |
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Slam Dunk Low V3 6A |
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Unearthed V5 6C |
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| Type: | Boulder, 20 ft (6 m) |
| FA: | Cole Allen |
| Page Views: | 4,266 total · 31/month |
| Shared By: | Sean Patrick on Sep 29, 2013 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Each year, the USFS monitors for raptor nesting.
A pair of golden eagles regularly nest on Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.
In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.
A pair of golden eagles regularly nest on Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.
In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.
Description
This is the best line in the area. It is characterized by powerful. technical compression on steep slopers and edges. Start on the lowest decent sideull for your left hand, and your right hand wrapped around the arete, on the smooth, polished, butt cheek-like hold. You'll have a great left foot, and a poor right foot to start.
Down low, you'll find an awesome techy kneebar, some sequential moves, a cool thumb-intensive pinch, and a classic tensiony transition move to a good crimp that allows you to get to the sloper above.
Although the bottom is challenging, you may find more trouble getting through the topout, which involves a heinous power-mantel on the aforementioned sloper, using difficult to see and not very good feet, and a thrutch to a decent crimp way up the left. Tougher because the bottom is a bit tiring. I think this thrutch could be considered a detractor by some, but I thought it was a nice capstone to the difficulty of the boulder- it really doesn't give up until you are standing on the slab above.
It is also possible to do the topout by avoiding the crux finish move, and heading right from the last big sloper. I've heard that this way is easier, maybe v8-ish. One bummer here is that the huge reach out left does seem to be height-dependent.
Down low, you'll find an awesome techy kneebar, some sequential moves, a cool thumb-intensive pinch, and a classic tensiony transition move to a good crimp that allows you to get to the sloper above.
Although the bottom is challenging, you may find more trouble getting through the topout, which involves a heinous power-mantel on the aforementioned sloper, using difficult to see and not very good feet, and a thrutch to a decent crimp way up the left. Tougher because the bottom is a bit tiring. I think this thrutch could be considered a detractor by some, but I thought it was a nice capstone to the difficulty of the boulder- it really doesn't give up until you are standing on the slab above.
It is also possible to do the topout by avoiding the crux finish move, and heading right from the last big sloper. I've heard that this way is easier, maybe v8-ish. One bummer here is that the huge reach out left does seem to be height-dependent.
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