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Routes in Tenmile Range

Helen/Dyer Traverse T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Mayflower Cirque Traverse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tenmile Traverse T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Alpine, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,651 total, 32/month
Shared By: Rob Griz on Sep 21, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This great traverse runs from the upper trailhead parking (4x4), to Atlantic Peak, Fletcher Peak, Drift Peak, and back down to the TH. For an idea of time, I climbed truck-2-truck in 5 hours. I experienced early snow and verglas, so it made it a bit more exciting. If you are comfortable soloing 5.7 alpine, no gear is necessary. If the crux shuts you down, you can traverse down below the spire on the west side and regain the ridge. An excellent write-up with much more detail is also found here: 14ers.com/php14ers/triprepo….

Location

Park in Mayflower Gulch upper trailhead (easy 4x4 road). Hike due north across meadow (wet in places) to left edge of talus on Atlantic. Summit Atlantic and enjoy the 4th/easy 5th class traverse along 5 major spires to Fletcher. The 5th spire holds the 5.7, 20m crux pitch. From Fletcher, drop down and pass 2 more technical spires to Drift Peak. Follow the bony ridge down to the upper trailhead. Atlantic: 13,841'; Fletcher: 13,951'; Drift: 13,921'. For extra fun, consider adding Pacific (13,950') and Quandary (14,265') to this route, easily done in a day. The upper trailhead in Mayflower is located at the gated Boston Mine (11,500').

Protection

A set of Link Cams, 30m rope.
Andrew Schindler
Lakewood
 
Andrew Schindler   Lakewood
 
The 5th tower is 5.5 with a few moves of 5.6. The fact that it is steep, exposed and on questionable rock makes it feel harder! There are some large, loose blocks in the easier section (3rd and 4th class), so take care. I'm sure it is a good bit more difficult in the winter! Jul 20, 2017