Type: Trad, Snow, Alpine, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,142 total · 34/month
Shared By: Rob Griz on Sep 21, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

9 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


This great traverse runs from the upper trailhead parking (4x4), to Atlantic Peak, Fletcher Peak, Drift Peak, and back down to the TH. For an idea of time, I climbed truck-2-truck in 5 hours. I experienced early snow and verglas, so it made it a bit more exciting. If you are comfortable soloing 5.7 alpine, no gear is necessary. If the crux shuts you down, you can traverse down below the spire on the west side and regain the ridge. An excellent write-up with much more detail is also found here: 14ers.com/php14ers/triprepo….


Park in Mayflower Gulch upper trailhead (easy 4x4 road). Hike due north across meadow (wet in places) to left edge of talus on Atlantic. Summit Atlantic and enjoy the 4th/easy 5th class traverse along 5 major spires to Fletcher. The 5th spire holds the 5.7, 20m crux pitch. From Fletcher, drop down and pass 2 more technical spires to Drift Peak. Follow the bony ridge down to the upper trailhead. Atlantic: 13,841'; Fletcher: 13,951'; Drift: 13,921'. For extra fun, consider adding Pacific (13,950') and Quandary (14,265') to this route, easily done in a day. The upper trailhead in Mayflower is located at the gated Boston Mine (11,500').


A set of Link Cams, 30m rope.
Andrew Schindler
Andrew Schindler   Lakewood
The 5th tower is 5.5 with a few moves of 5.6. The fact that it is steep, exposed and on questionable rock makes it feel harder! There are some large, loose blocks in the easier section (3rd and 4th class), so take care. I'm sure it is a good bit more difficult in the winter! Jul 20, 2017
Long Ranger
Boulder, CO
Long Ranger   Boulder, CO
Did this from Fletcher to Atlantic, so did a sneak around to the east on the first tower found. Scrambling around was steep, loose, and scary.

Started from Trout Creek Pass and ended up at Frisco a little less than 4 days later. Jul 4, 2018
D. Snyder
Golden, CO
  5.6 Mod. Snow R
D. Snyder   Golden, CO
  5.6 Mod. Snow R
Fun traverse! Started with the W Ridge of Pacific and contrived some 5.5ish climbing on that route. On the traverse proper, I just climbed what looked cool, not necessarily easiest and found many 5.4-5.6 sections (up and down-climbing) throughout the traverse. I would not give the crux tower 5.7 though. Exposed and somewhat to very shattered rock abounds, so that perhaps makes some of the climbing feel harder. Finished up with Drift and downclimbing straight into the notch to summit Drift felt to be about 5.4 or so. Aug 24, 2018
D. Snyder
Golden, CO
  5.6 Mod. Snow R
D. Snyder   Golden, CO
  5.6 Mod. Snow R
So I just did this traverse again (solo) from Fletcher to Atlantic as part of the full McCullough Gulch Traverse. Definitely spicier this way. The down-climbs of the southern-most and middle towers are the cruxes. Would be fun to bring a rope at some point and tag some of the interesting, harder variations/cracks on a few of the towers. BTW the McCullough Gulch version (starting w/ the Inwood Arete on Quandary and including Pacific) is about 1.5 times as long with similar difficulty and more 4th-5.easy including a long section on Peak 13,238 to finish off. I parked for this version on the dirt road down next to McCullough Creek. Aug 28, 2018