Type: Trad, Snow, Alpine, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,895 total · 39/month
Shared By: Rob Griz on Sep 21, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

This great traverse runs from the upper trailhead parking (4x4), to Atlantic Peak, Fletcher Peak, Drift Peak, and back down to the TH. For an idea of time, I climbed truck-2-truck in 5 hours. I experienced early snow and verglas, so it made it a bit more exciting. If you are comfortable soloing 5.7 alpine, no gear is necessary. If the crux shuts you down, you can traverse down below the spire on the west side and regain the ridge. An excellent write-up with much more detail is also found here: 14ers.com/php14ers/triprepo….

Location

Park in Mayflower Gulch upper trailhead (easy 4x4 road). Hike due north across meadow (wet in places) to left edge of talus on Atlantic. Summit Atlantic and enjoy the 4th/easy 5th class traverse along 5 major spires to Fletcher. The 5th spire holds the 5.7, 20m crux pitch. From Fletcher, drop down and pass 2 more technical spires to Drift Peak. Follow the bony ridge down to the upper trailhead. Atlantic: 13,841'; Fletcher: 13,951'; Drift: 13,921'. For extra fun, consider adding Pacific (13,950') and Quandary (14,265') to this route, easily done in a day. The upper trailhead in Mayflower is located at the gated Boston Mine (11,500').

Protection

A set of Link Cams and a 30m rope.

Photos