Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
Unicorn Peak Normal Route
Easy 5th YDS 1+ French 3 Ewbanks I UIAA 5 ZA M 1c British
Avg: 2.5 from 26
votes
Routes in Unicorn Peak
|
|
East Face Direct(aka Toffey’s Turnabout) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Unicorn Peak Normal Route T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 5,331 total · 41/month |
| Shared By: | kenr on Sep 2, 2013 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Dramatic peak visible from many places in the Tuolumne area. Nice summit view. Interesting climbing to reach the highest N summit, but pretty short compared to the approach (shortest from the East side).
Difficulty of the N summit traditionally rated class 4, but one obvious way of doing it has a slightly overhanging (or at least fully vertical) move with exposure to a deadly fall - seems more like class 5.
. (If you're more of a scrambler than a serious rock-climber ... unless you're partnered with someone with a rope who knows how to use it for protection ... better to plan toward getting only the Middle summit, perhaps along with the higher mountain less than half a mile south along the same ridge as the Unicorn.)
approach: Trailhead is at Tuolumne Meadows campground (along S side of highway 120 about 8 miles W from the Yosemite N.P. east entrance at Tioga Pass) near group camp, the B loop. Bear-proof boxes for day-hiker food storage.
Take the Elizabeth Lake trail South about 2.3 miles / 3.7 km (with vertical gain 900 ft / 270 meters) to near Elizabeth Lake. Hike / scramble up the East (or NE) slope of the Unicorn to the notch between the middle summit and the north summit (vertical gain approx +1300 ft / 400 meters).
climb: The highest North summit is close to the notch, so it's tempting to want to "go for it", but it's not so easy. One way to get there is to cross over to the W side of the notch, then make an exposed short traverse N. Next up to the crest of the ridge, perhaps a little to its other side, then perhaps a delicate move up, and on to the summit. Before committing to any move, keep in mind you'll have to do it again on the way back.
Middle summit is easier climbing and less exposed.
descent: Return the same way.
Some people like to also climb the (higher) hump about 0.3 miles / 500 meters to the South along the broad ridge - which is fun if you like scrambling on big granite talus.
Or to play with additional exposed climbing moves, can find some in traversing the other Unicorn summits and narrow S ridge.
statistics: Total horizontal distance about 2.9 miles / 4.7 km.
Total vertical gain about +2200 ft / 670 meters.
Difficulty of the N summit traditionally rated class 4, but one obvious way of doing it has a slightly overhanging (or at least fully vertical) move with exposure to a deadly fall - seems more like class 5.
. (If you're more of a scrambler than a serious rock-climber ... unless you're partnered with someone with a rope who knows how to use it for protection ... better to plan toward getting only the Middle summit, perhaps along with the higher mountain less than half a mile south along the same ridge as the Unicorn.)
approach: Trailhead is at Tuolumne Meadows campground (along S side of highway 120 about 8 miles W from the Yosemite N.P. east entrance at Tioga Pass) near group camp, the B loop. Bear-proof boxes for day-hiker food storage.
Take the Elizabeth Lake trail South about 2.3 miles / 3.7 km (with vertical gain 900 ft / 270 meters) to near Elizabeth Lake. Hike / scramble up the East (or NE) slope of the Unicorn to the notch between the middle summit and the north summit (vertical gain approx +1300 ft / 400 meters).
climb: The highest North summit is close to the notch, so it's tempting to want to "go for it", but it's not so easy. One way to get there is to cross over to the W side of the notch, then make an exposed short traverse N. Next up to the crest of the ridge, perhaps a little to its other side, then perhaps a delicate move up, and on to the summit. Before committing to any move, keep in mind you'll have to do it again on the way back.
Middle summit is easier climbing and less exposed.
descent: Return the same way.
Some people like to also climb the (higher) hump about 0.3 miles / 500 meters to the South along the broad ridge - which is fun if you like scrambling on big granite talus.
Or to play with additional exposed climbing moves, can find some in traversing the other Unicorn summits and narrow S ridge.
statistics: Total horizontal distance about 2.9 miles / 4.7 km.
Total vertical gain about +2200 ft / 670 meters.
5 Comments